Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interested in upgrading to 3" dump and front pipe but i got a few questions to ask b4 i purchase, if any1 has had experience with this.

1) Is there any diff b/w getting a 1 piece front/dump pipe or buying 2 separate pieces

2) Why is the diff between say a X-Force $200 and a $500 Catco one in terms of quality performace.

3) Does the split system (2 seperate pipes out of turbo) make any diff and is it worth getting it? I know its supposed to reduce turbulance or something, but is this fact or just a gimmick?

4) How long should a mild steel one last for? ie is it worth paying the extra $100 for stainless?

5) What else should i know

Thanx guys, advice much appreciated

Edited by Taso84
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114690-frontdump-pipes/
Share on other sites

1 - search

2 - you get what you pay for

3 - search

4 - should last for as long as you own the car, stainless is ultimately for looks IMO

5 - I installed an all in one front & dump and hi flow cat (from BATMBL on this forum) as one of the very first mods i did to my 33, it is definately worth doing.

Went for mild steel as i'm not huge on the "bling" and although in retrospect i'd go for the split pipe, there were good gains to be made with the combined front & dump.

go for it mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114690-frontdump-pipes/#findComment-2112046
Share on other sites

Interested in upgrading to 3" dump and front pipe but i got a few questions to ask b4 i purchase, if any1 has had experience with this.

1) Is there any diff b/w getting a 1 piece front/dump pipe or buying 2 separate pieces

2) Why is the diff between say a X-Force $200 and a $500 Catco one in terms of quality performace.

3) Does the split system (2 seperate pipes out of turbo) make any diff and is it worth getting it? I know its supposed to reduce turbulance or something, but is this fact or just a gimmick?

4) How long should a mild steel one last for? ie is it worth paying the extra $100 for stainless?

5) What else should i know

Thanx guys, advice much appreciated

3) Yeah it does, provided the split is for long enough. So if you are going a split system make sure you'd want to be getting a 1 piece front/dump pump to ensure the split is not just for 2 inches.

that's the only one i know the answer to sorry!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114690-frontdump-pipes/#findComment-2112077
Share on other sites

1. 2 piece is easier to work on.

2. dunno, you didn't give us specs on either.

3. Not a gimmick. Worth getting. The longer the split the better.

4. Probably longer than you will have the car. Mild is fine.

5. If getting a split one better to get a one piece.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114690-frontdump-pipes/#findComment-2113107
Share on other sites

The reason why the 2 piece dumps are not as good (reads quite substantially worse) is because the lengtht htat the split runs is very short. Furthermore, all the split ones i've seen are only 2.5" e.g. the HKS ones.

Split ones are better. there have been dyno posts on sau demonstrating this. the benefit is quite substantial. I personally went the batmbl route.

Stainless will last longer. Mild steel will last so long that it's just not funny. I have a mild steel catback that came with my car from japan. It is probably >5 years old and it only has a few tiny specs of surface rust on it. IMO, stainless is a waste of money. It's not even for looks coz you can't even see it under the heatshield.

IMO the catco dump is not noticeably of better quality than the xforce one. As I have said above, the design is better. It has a long split. The xforce is a 2 piece dump/front with the dump being 2.5".

Anything elese you should know? if you're planning on replacing it yourself, be prepared to drink many beers and scratch your head thinking a bit. Things are never straight bolt in. e.g. you might need to use an angle grinder on some of the flanges. The exhaust hanger will need modification to fit a 3" pipe.

Regarding changing the dump for a turbo later on, you'll find that many turbos are avaialble for the stock 6bolt dump flange. You'll find these more than adequate unless if you're chasing massive power (reads >270 odd rwkw). It's no biggy anyways. If you're putting on a turbo for more power than that, most likely you'll need to be changing manifold flange too and many other things and having the wrong flange on your dump will be the least of your worries. Dump flange can be changed.

Hope i've covered it all. I was feeling generous today instead of just telling you to search.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114690-frontdump-pipes/#findComment-2118717
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...