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  • 2 weeks later...
I get asked quite often how to tell if second hand shocks are OK. While it is not 100% perfect, you can do some easy checks, if any of these show a problem then its rebuild time.

1. The first job is to check for oil leaks around the top seals, on the shock body where the shaft goes through. Any oil (even a tiny bit) is bad news.

2. Next make sure that the shocks have equal gas pressure, take the springs off and compare the front pair with each other. Push them down equally and make sure that it takes the same amount of force to push them down. Any difference (even a tiny bit) is bad news.

3. Then make sure that they come up together at the same speed. Any difference (even a tiny bit) is bad news.

4. Do the same for the rear pair.

5. Lastly look at the shock shafts, if they are not perfectly shiny, the same all the length and all the way around, then that is real bad news. They must have no rust, no scratches and no visible wear marks. New shafts cost more than whole shocks.

That's about it, if the shocks pass those tests then chances are they are OK, for now.

;) cheers :D

I wrote the above in answer to a question on how to tell if used SHOCKS are OK, the additional test for strut tops are;

1. If they have spherical bearings then there is a 99% chance that the bearings are stuffed, so check them carefully.

2. Remove the strut tops from the shock/spring unit and rotate the spherical bearing, check for scuff marks and wear through the hardening. This shows up as discolouration and sometimes even surface rust.

3. Bolt the strut tops back on the shaft shaft (without the spring), then check for play by rocking the strut top while holding the shock solidly (in a vice is best).

4. Any free play, visible wear or knocking means that the spherical bearings are stuffed, this usually means buying new strut tops as most Jap coil over kits use unique sizes of sphericals.

If the guy selling them won't let you do the above tests (plus the shock testing) then WALK AWAY, they are most likely useless.

:D cheers :D

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Sydneykid,

Just wanted to say thank you for your advice and want everyone to know your shockers are the bomb!, thanks to you i love driving my car again it dosent pitch like it was with the other shockers and it handles way flatter at the increased height I look forward to doing business with you again as i will go the Bilsteins for the rear also, you cant beat that adjustable height setup too easy.Mate your a true gentleman it was a pleasure dealing with you in every way.I posted this here because your mailbox is always full ,cheers all the best

Carlo

  • 1 month later...

Hey SK,

Just wondering about the Monotube Vs Twin Tube argument

Is it true that shocks with seperate bound and rebound adjustment require a twintube design?

So they use completely separate valves for bump vs rebound

(one at the bottom of the piston rod and the other at the base of the strut)

with different flow paths and twin-tube technology?

I think KW use this design

They dont have to be twin tube to have seperate bump and rebound adjustment, actually, I think most 2-4way adjustable shocks are monotube. Only twin tube 4 way adjustable shocks I know of (havn't looked into it that much) are made by Ohlins, namely the TT40/TT44 (discontinued, and got replaced by pretty much the same thing, but monotube, according to their website) and the TTX40. These aren't your typical twin tube shock thoughs, especially the TTX40.

What you have suggested is how most twin tube shocks work (bump valving in the foot-valve and rebound in the piston.)

Edited by salad
  • 1 month later...

whats a good brand of coil over for a street driven 32 GTR? i have been looking at Trust type s, hks hypermax 3 sport, buddy club. just wondering anyones opinions about some of these or any others they have used and liked

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Sydney Kid, :D

Need some advise/quote on new shocks upgrade for R32 gtst as mine are really tired ('89 model).

Also would you suggest anything else that should be upgraded eg.swaybars to improve ride comfort as I don't like coil overs being way to stiff for street.

Please note that I don't have heaps money. I had a quote for KYB's for arround 11 hundred fitted and alligned.

Any input greatly appreciated.

Cheers :P

Dave

Hey Sydney Kid, :ph34r:

Need some advise/quote on new shocks upgrade for R32 gtst as mine are really tired ('89 model).

Also would you suggest anything else that should be upgraded eg.swaybars to improve ride comfort as I don't like coil overs being way to stiff for street.

Please note that I don't have heaps money. I had a quote for KYB's for arround 11 hundred fitted and alligned.

Any input greatly appreciated.

Cheers :rofl:

Dave

Try the Group Buy

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591

Any questions PM is good.

Cheers

  • 10 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

your pm was full so i thought i would let you know here

i noticed you are after strut tops, i have a full set from a r33 if you want them. I dont want any money for them, but if you fix up the delivery cost, they're yours (probably $5-10).

Anyhoo, pm if you want them

:)

  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Just bought an R34 GTT, need some help from you guys, the car has TIEN shocks and springs, the ride is bone breaking, the roads in the Philippines are bad with holes and bumps everywhere, so makes it hard to drive when the ride is so stiff, have reduced 10-20psi, but still very stiff, front end seems to bounce now, i am thinking of changing all the shocks and springs, car is not used on track, just street use, so i'm in need of your help to suggest the best shocks and springs, for a smoother ride, but still keeping all the performance, car runs great, but would enjoy it more if it were a smother ride. Thank you and regards to all. Phil

  • 6 months later...

This thread is a helpful one for me. First of all, it gave me some ideas on the shock absorbers and gave me also info on the different kinds of it such as the Front Shock Absorber and others. I hope these threads will be continued in order for all of us have new and greater knowledge in order to really be informed on these things.

  • 6 months later...

Hi there,

I was hoping someone could fill me in here. I have an R34 GTT (2dr coupe) and I need to replace both front and rear shocks.

Firstly: Could anyone please confirm if the shock absorbers for an R34 GTT are compatible with an R33

I get the impression that it is quite specific to model, ie R34 GTT might not fit in an R34 GT (non-turbo) or R34 GTT (2dr) might not fit in an R34 GTT (4dr).

Secondly, is there anyway (maybe someone with Nissan FAST) could look up the appropriate part numbers for VIN: ER34040389

Thanks for anyone who can help out! It would be much appreciated :banana:

Hi there,

I was hoping someone could fill me in here. I have an R34 GTT (2dr coupe) and I need to replace both front and rear shocks.

Firstly: Could anyone please confirm if the shock absorbers for an R34 GTT are compatible with an R33

I get the impression that it is quite specific to model, ie R34 GTT might not fit in an R34 GT (non-turbo) or R34 GTT (2dr) might not fit in an R34 GTT (4dr).

Secondly, is there anyway (maybe someone with Nissan FAST) could look up the appropriate part numbers for VIN: ER34040389

Thanks for anyone who can help out! It would be much appreciated :banana:

I've got an R34 GTT coupe myself - the front shocks from an R33 GTS-T will fit, as they're both eyelet types, however the GTS-T rears are also eyelet meanwhile the GT-T's coupes are fork types.

Coupe's Front Rear

R33 GTS-T Eyelet Eyelet

R33 GTR Eyelet Fork

R34 GT-T Eyelet Fork

R34 GTR Eyelet Fork

I can ask regarding standard shocks for the FAST codes, however I'd suggest getting the Bilstein shocks pointed out in the the first thread post.

  • 4 months later...

Hey SK,

need your advice on Tein HA coilovers on my R33, is there some kind of ideal ratio in which to set the front compared to back???

What causes the bouncing??? worn shockies or springs to firm????? can i change springs or is that not economical????

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