Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How you going guys,

im about to hi flow my r33 standard turbo and i was wondering if i was running 12psi with the hi flow would it runn better that a standard turbo on 12psi or the same?

CHEERS!

Sorry to hi jack the thread but once you high flow the stock turbo do you need to mod anything else or is it straight bolt on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114793-turbo-hi-flow/#findComment-2113723
Share on other sites

Sorry to hi jack the thread but once you high flow the stock turbo do you need to mod anything else or is it straight bolt on?

ummm yes you do you will need to upgrade your ECU and maybe a brand new fuel pump and injectors just depends on how much psi you wanna run if you want the full power out of it you need to do this and also how it will run on dyno, on mine i have all these plus frount mount pod electronic boost conroller exhuast ect..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114793-turbo-hi-flow/#findComment-2113737
Share on other sites

ummm yes you do you will need to upgrade your ECU and maybe a brand new fuel pump and injectors just depends on how much psi you wanna run if you want the full power out of it you need to do this and also how it will run on dyno, on mine i have all these plus frount mount pod electronic boost conroller exhuast ect..

So if i want extra power (hi flow potential) ill need to upgrade other stuff if i want stock power just bang it in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114793-turbo-hi-flow/#findComment-2113778
Share on other sites

it might make more, it might not.

all depends on what spec wheels are being put into the turbo as a part of the "hi-flow" process.

It might need 15 psi... you'll never know unless its one of the more "trusted" hi-flows as opposed to some workshops poor idea of a high-flow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/114793-turbo-hi-flow/#findComment-2113966
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...