Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone tell me the weight of a 40mm aftermarket radiator, say from ARE, PWR or Race Radiator comlplete with coolant vs the std radiator complete with coolant???

I think im marginal for cooling with my new bar...so if the aftermarket jobbie will weight more then that will basically make up my mind

Also, does anyone know the respective weights of the RB20DET 5 spd, R32 GTR 5 spd and R33 GTS25t 5 spd?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115067-a-silly-radiator-gearbox-question/
Share on other sites

it hardly weighs anything different.

the ally radiator from Race (same as mine) is very light.

Its holds a bit more, but then thats a couple KG's if your lucky

GTR 5-speed, more than RB25 5-speed (obviously)

Its a fair bit heavier.

One person can move the RB20 on thier own, normally takes 2 people for RB25 box, so fair difference

rb20 gearbox = light as not a problem to lift (about same as a sr box)

rb25 gearbox = can be lifted by one person.. best for 2 people to do so as im 6ft n 110ish kg and i struggled to carry it a distance but how ever did so

gtr box = couldnt tell ya never had to lift one

even the stock rb20det radiator is very light without water in it.. I'd estimate about 3kg. It's not something where weight saving is going to be an issue.

just make sure you don't use heavy water in there or its all over :P

even the stock rb20det radiator is very light without water in it.. I'd estimate about 3kg. It's not something where weight saving is going to be an issue.

just make sure you don't use heavy water in there or its all over :P

LOL...but my concern is at the moment my cooling is marginal. If a new radiator is going to be heavier then im happy to keep the car the way it is with the std radiator...but if there isnt going to be more weight then ill try and grab an alloy cooler in the next few weeks, will se how it all goes.

Ditto the gearbox, my current gearbox seems happy enough, but it is the most likely part on my car to break next so want to have a plan for when it dies...and no way i want to throw 20kgs at my car, if thats what the difference is...its not like i have big torque and 300rwkws which will kill the RB20 box.

What is the point in the aftermarket radiator if it doesnt hold a greater capacity of coolant (and hence weigh more). It is a heat exchanger after all, greater the thermal capacity the better. This is assuming the difference in weight of the alum and plastics are neg.

Edited by DCIEVE

The point i would think is not too have more weight or internal volume...but greater surface area does improve effeciency...and i would want one for improved effeciency/heat transfer.

Im just worried about putting too big a radiator in my car at great expense and additional weight...ignore the numbers biut an example is why have 5kw cooling capacity when i only need 2kws?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...