Jump to content
SAU Community

Auto Trans Cooler... What If I Add A Thermofan?

WazR32GTSt

By WazR32GTSt,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

so i have an r32gtst with an automatic transmission (and yes, i like it like that)

about 2 years ago, my brain saw a light bulb and decided to make me fit a large trans cooler which i purchased cheaply from supercheap. it has never given me a problem and works well, and you can feel the warmth coming throug the cooler when you touch it after driving

BUT... instead of mounting the trans cooler in front of the radiator like it said, i decided to mount if in the front bumper on the drivers side, so its like a mirrored location of the stock intercooler. i cut a hole in the guard behind the trans cooler, and made some ducting so that air flows through the cooler, rather than around it.

recently, whilst pondering the damaging effects of a car sitting in traffic in the brisbane summer heat, i decided to make a switch that is in the dash that is connected to my electric aircon fan. when in traffic (or after a hard drive) i turn it on to get some extra airflow through the radiator. it makes a huge difference and i can feel the hot air from the drivers window if i place my hand out.

so it got me thinking (yeah, it hurts)... what if i mount a mini thermo fan onto the auto trans cooler, and wire it up in parallel with the aircon fan, so that when i flick the switch, the transmission is also cooled in those stressful traffic situations?

I did some ebaying (is that a word?) and found some 7" thermo fans that were pretty cheap.. is this going to make any difference at all, or am i barking up the wrong tree here?

any automatic guru's out there that want to shed some light?

thanking you kindly,

Warren

GTR_STEALTH Proficient

GTR_STEALTH

Posted
Posted

You could give it a go...

Although i'd go for having a direct switch you can control from the cabin...Maybe go for the switches that light up when on so you dont forget to turn it off.....

pkblade Experienced

pkblade

Posted
Posted

There are off-the-shelf tran coolers that come with fans already attached but, normally you would have one if the cooler is placed somewhere with limited air-flow.

Yes, the fan will cool the fluids down while in traffic, but if you place it infront of the cooler it may restrict the cooling capabilities of the cooler while the fan is off during cruising speeds. Is the fan reversible (ie. can it suck air)? If the fan is reversible & space permitting I'd place it behind the trans cooler.

But, as Craved suggested if the current position is receiving sufficent air flow I wouldn't think one is necessary.

TurboX Mentor

TurboX

Posted
Posted

Great to see someone else is not afraid to voice a positive opinion on an Auto Skyline.

I also prefer the Auto although tricked up and with a 2700RPM high stall converter.

For this reason I have a massive aircond condensor as a cooler with two 12v dc Computer fans on it in place of the original I/C -as heat is the killer of auto's -especially when stalling up on the line :ban:

You cant do enough to keep the trans fluid temps down and prolong the life of the trans as far as I am concerned even if you dont stall it up often.

4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted

I'm not opposed to the idea, but just wondering if its needed.

If the car is idling at the lights on a hot day, the trans isnt really generating a lot of heat (this occurs when you torque it up)

If you already have a trans cooler it would have better cooling than a standard car, (and stock autos dont have many problems) and I would be a little worried that the fan might restrict air flow and in effect make it worse when you are driving, and when the trans IS making heat.

I am a big fan of trans coolers (I have one on my auto) but im not sure if the fan will offer a lot of benifits

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

perhaps not mounting it directly on the cooler itself then and just blowing air onto the cooler. wont cause any restriction of the air flow when moving, and will keep air moving passed it when stationary..

best of both worlds i guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...