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1 bar = 14.7 psi.

A lot of stock cars don't pull any more than 140 rwkw which is close to your mark.

Often adding mods doesn't increases power. The stock Ecu is really weak, as soon as you start adding more boost and flowing air you can actually lose power. Depending on the car some take 9psi -10psi ok but others don't gain much and the stock ecu retards the timing and richens the fuel mixture.

1. You should have a dyno plot of the AFR (air fuel ratio) - I bet it is rich.

2. Plus yor boost trails off a lot. Take off the ebc and see if the boost holds (should be 5psi) - If you connect up the old standard solenoid and leavie it wired open you should get 7-8psi that only drops maybe 1 psi. If this doesn't then maybe your actuator is playing up or your turbo needs a look at.

Either way don't believe what people get on dynos..there can be a 30-40rwkw difference I think. SOme people claim 180rwkw on near stock cars

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looks very flat...

going in for another run in 4th (the way its supposed to be done) next week sometime (only has a cat back atm) so i'll see how it compares to what you've got

May be hard to get a power reading in 4th in a stock car. You could quite possible hit the 180km/h speed limiter before max power, so if this is the case then it is pretty pointless.

The gear does not matter dick, if you knew anything about dyno's you would know that. Its merely better to tune them in this gear as the ratios are closest to 1:1. Fact of the matter is a power run in 3rd will only move the graph left, ie at a lower speed...

Also its amazing how many "happy" dyno's are around and how many "supurb" results happen.

Sammie

I would look into why your getting a low result, maybe a restriction, drop the exhaust after a run on the same dyno and compare, there may also be other factors that you can try.

The gear does matter as the higher the gear the faster the acceleration hence the more the power. I do believe that there are some happy dyno's around and I think thats what dezz saw, as the a car that crept up off the rear rollers due to the higher torque gear; hence the high reading.

il hava look tommorow however just recently got a high flow xforce cat installed well heres a pic of what im trying to tell u guys that tubing which i hav indicated was not connected and my mate thought it would be leaking so he got some strong kart fuel line and connected it then i started boosting however i a little to much hit 1 bar where as my ebc is set to 11 psi any thoughts ?

post-25164-1146137234.jpg

Man i would love to know how you guys are getting 182rw/kw from a stock GTST... sorry to say but sounds to me the dyno tuner is playing with the roller settings just to make you think you got 182rw/kw... or maybe ur reading the dyno wrong... could be in HP not KW... read the dyno thread and there are guys with full exhaust, FMIC, boost struggling to hit the 180+rw/kw... either way post a dyno graph...

As for your car sammie, maybe the bov was the issue in boost leak? if you can feel better power now, that may have been your problem...

Cheers,

Sarkis

Also, just looking at your dyno graph.

Air temp was 17deg's and your intake temp was 37deg's.

That seems like a large jump to me, considering you have a FMIC.

To give you an idea, my run, on 12psi showed something like 30deg air temp and 34deg intake temp, a jump of only 4degrees.

Fixxxer

hmm guys this is real hard to explain but went to see aguy i knew had a look at the dyno sheet and looked under the bonnet for leaks etc he looked at the stock bov and saw that it wasnt blocked cause i hav after market bov connected near the pod he put some tubing on the end of it and connected it to another tubing line which is connected to the throttle body sorry im not good with motors but as i was saying i drove it and this time it actually felt like it was boosted however hit 1 bar so i let off straight away he turned my ebc off and i drove it was hitting .8 bar and felt much much better i could tell because the bov was much louder and could hear the pressure releasing alot more however in 3rd gear it almost hits 1 bar which i was told is veryvery unsafe for my car so i just putted my way home any ideas ?

and the workshop didnt notice this but some random mate noticed? sounds about right, i had plenty of problems with my rb26 only managing 180rwhp (on 18psi too) on the same dyno and 20 power runs later they didnt have a clue (i said to one of the mechanics/part owners to check timing and he said i qoute "set and forget") and they blamed my brand new highflowed turbos, so i got them rechecked (took engine out to get em off) and plenty of pissin around and put em back on after they were checked and back to the dyno and guess what... 180rwhp again, so luckily the same mechanic was away so i made the other one check the timing after a bit of pleading as he obviously thought it was also abit too dificult to even bother, and it was out by 20 degrees and he fixed the timing and then it got 350rwhp. they dont like picking up tools when tuning i noticed on every single occasion i was there. my old mans supercharged commodore had a slipping supercharger belt and they didnt even bother to try and tighten it, and instead tuned it on the low 5psi and let it slip at higher revs. slack is all that describes it.

just my experience , dont beleive the hype, beleive the work u actually have seen, as plenty of people open their gob and reccomend before they even use workshops.

yea i know what u mean my mate said im surprised no one picked up on it and my old man is quit annoyed that the place i took my car to didnt see it however even with a after market bov near my pod is the stock bov still supposed to hav tubing connecting to the throttlebody/plenum ?

Also, just looking at your dyno graph.

Air temp was 17deg's and your intake temp was 37deg's.

That seems like a large jump to me, considering you have a FMIC.

To give you an idea, my run, on 12psi showed something like 30deg air temp and 34deg intake temp, a jump of only 4degrees.

Fixxxer

So I take it "IT" on the dyno graph represents intake temp? If so, then I have a graph which shows 30deg air temp and 28deg intake temp. Work that one out. I think they measured it from the air filter, does this sound right?

Some Rbs do make 180+rwkw,did one this month that made that kind of power and it ran 13.0@180ks so the power was quite real.China cooler, cat back and Safc.

As for Air temps, the probe goes next to the air filter and there can be a huge differance in temps from exhausts etc.If this was not true no one would make cold air intakes.

call into top racing and have a chat to steve (NIB) and the other guys and they will sort u out, they are the most helpful business in the car community, thankfully theres one decent shop around, with good knowledge and they can actually solve problems and not send u home to sort them yourself. :)

What you need to check and probably what they didn't

1. Boost leak - if there is a slight leak you might still get the boost pressure its showing. you will also notice the mixture being rich as.

2. Base timing - if it 10 degress retarded then you will have no power.

3. Exhaust restriction - check your cat hasn't melted (If its been heavily retarded the standard ecu has enough fuel in the top end to destroy you cat).

4. Check plug quality and tension make sure there is no arc(white marks) on any of the boots thats if it missing.

Really need more information on what has been done and what they found. Go and ask them for every dyno sheet displaying AFR and boost. Also get a duty cycle value on the boost control solenoid. If its 100% DC then something is wrong - exhaust restriction, f**ked turbo or a leak.

Edited by rob82
bit of a bugger im in w.a lol i just really wanna knwo if i should hav tubing from the stock bov to the plenum or not and yesi do hava after markter bov and wandering why my boost is going over then wat i hav set it to on the ebc

top racing is in WA, in bentley.

i cant remember the address off the top of my head, Capel street i think from memory

also Rob82, ive tried asking for afr graphs and got refused so i dont hold much luck for Samie, though i think they refused because my engine just detonated and cracked a piston ringland after a tune, and they were covering their backs.

Edited by CruiseLiner

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