Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I still haven’t been able to source the parts for the xenon conversion.. Does anyone know some who complies r34’s that can change mine back to xenon...?

Read post 10, i'm not sure that you will be able to reconvert , depends on what they did .

More than likely you cant , if i see your lights i can tell you if you can ...

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I recently bought HID's from a group buy for $200 and fitted them myself. That sucks if you can't get them back. But if that is the case i would just wait around for another group buy and get them through that.

But yeah HID's make a huge difference!

I recently bought HID's from a group buy for $200 and fitted them myself. That sucks if you can't get them back. But if that is the case i would just wait around for another group buy and get them through that.

But yeah HID's make a huge difference!

But isnt that just the Xenon light? I'd imagine the whole light assembly would be much better then just chucking a xenon light into an assembly where its built to refract/reflect normal bulb light? I'd much prefer the whole light assembly if i could get my hands on some!

Im no expert and i havent done science in a while, so dont qoute me on that.

Yeah it was just the globe, and ballasts.

Obviously it woudl work better in the proper housing i mean it woudl be designed to project HID's

I'm not sure on the importing topic i didn't think they woudl change the light assembly??? And wack in a normal Halogen?

OK, I had mine complied and I pulled the out myself because I checked the way they convert them and from what I see there is no way to convert back to Xenon. They remove the power packs (transformers/ballasts) and modify the light housing at the rear end to run a wire for the halogens as the power packs feed into the light housing internally, bit of a fu(k round really. I fitted poxy 34 halogen lights, yeah I had to change the plugs on the loom but wasn't very hard.

Depending on what Xenon’s you have it will make a difference to whether it is worth the trouble. The light the stock Xenon's give off, while nice and white is a little dim. I would love to get a brighter set of bulbs for mine but can't justify the cost.

SAU Vic members can purchase Xenon upgrade kits from Philips for the 34's as we are sponsored by them, maybe check out the Philips kits?

Another option is to look for another person brining in a 34 and swap the lights before compliance…….or threaten to dob the compliance agent in unless they give them back as they are breaking the SEVS rules :D They SHOULD be destroyed but hey..

If you need any info on the stock Xenon’s or photo’s etc of the assembly let me know.

Cheers.

PS - Attached is a pic (hard to see sorry) of the 34 Halogen lamps.

post-2471-1149233904.jpg

.

The light the stock Xenon's give off, while nice and white is a little dim.

I think there is something wrong with your lights if you say the stock xenons are dim, mine are very bright!

They don't change the light assembly - therefore R34 GTT/GTR headlight units are meant for HID bulb light output.

(They even have the XENON label imprinted on the reflector).

There you go if you can't get them of the complice dude just get a kit for $200 next group buy, or msg Bankids to see if he has any left over. And you should be set!

Oh shit i was always under the impression the whole light assembly was changed to a non-xenon one.

If its true that the light assembly stays, and they just remove the Xenon light globe, just go out and buy a new light globe. Easy as. Much cheaper then the $700 ransom your being held under.

Oh shit i was always under the impression the whole light assembly was changed to a non-xenon one.

If its true that the light assembly stays, and they just remove the Xenon light globe, just go out and buy a new light globe. Easy as. Much cheaper then the $700 ransom your being held under.

are u sure they just change the bulb....cuz that woulld be okai....bulbs are nothing....if they change the whole assembly....thats another issue....how can one tell?

Oh shit i was always under the impression the whole light assembly was changed to a non-xenon one.

If its true that the light assembly stays, and they just remove the Xenon light globe, just go out and buy a new light globe. Easy as. Much cheaper then the $700 ransom your being held under.

Hmm it's not as simple as that dude, if it was everyone would just replace the globe ...

They take the balast off ( under the light assembly) they cut the wiring that goes from another balast ( inside the h/light assembly) to the globe and finaly they replace the globe with a halogen .

To reconvert you need hte balast ( easy) but the hard part is to run a wire from the little balast ( inside the assemly) to the globe and get another plug . This is impossible to do because they cut the wire so close to the little balast inside that you can't get to it unless you pull the h/l assembly apart ( pull the front off) so you can get to the little balast inside...

To reconvert you need hte balast ( easy) but the hard part is to run a wire from the little balast ( inside the assemly) to the globe and get another plug . This is impossible to do because they cut the wire so close to the little balast inside that you can't get to it unless you pull the h/l assembly apart ( pull the front off) so you can get to the little balast inside...

impossible?.......unless i pull the assembly apart...far out that some work....damnet.....can someone list or post a few places that will do his sort of job cheap?

I bought a HID kit from BATMBL, check the for sale section, maybe the traders/supporters section.

Kit includes globes and ballast.

R34's have 2 light assemblies, Halogen (some 4doors and non-turbo's) and the Xenon assembly (Turbo, GTR, etc, possibly GTV)

Apparently there is a company in Sydney that does a conversion to the Xenon assembly so compliance places don't have to buy a set of Halogen assemblies.

You lose the OEM ballast and globes. And this company is then meant to destroy the parts. I believe it's 'Grey Imports' (Sydney, not QLD)

I don't know what they charge the compliance workshops, but i guess it's cheaper than buying a Halogen assembly.

I have yet to fit the BATMBL HID kit, but i've been told it includes everything i need, that i lost when my lights were replaced with halogen globes (but still the Xenon assembly)

The compliance halogens are SHOCKING, night driving would be so much safer with the OEM Xenon's. It's a joke, it's about making the cars compliant with ADR's, and some of the rules just make them more friggen dangerous to drive :dry: - compliance tyres instead of top of the line, high performance jap tyres that don't have a friggen dot?? pathetic...

Yeah it's not as easy as jsut replacing the light. As mentioned above there is ballasts involved in driving the HID globes.

So i would sujest for get abotu utilising the factory balasts (pulling the h/l appart or w/e was mention)

And jsut put innew ballats the kits will come with two new ones and two globes for liek $200 so really theres no need to pull it apart, just wack in the whole new HID kit.

All you will have to do is put in the new HID wich is as simple as putting in a new globe. mabe cutting a slightly bigger hole in the plastic cap on the back of the h/l (easy as piss) and then wiring in the balasts.

Easy as man.

I dunno about the R34 mabe someone can help him out and let us knwo what type of globe it will need?

H1??? H4???? etc

Just sticking an aftermarket xenon kit into a 'converted' r34 xenon housing produces a totally shit result. Yes, the light was really white, and it was clearly a lot brighter too. But the problem is utlising this brightness. That is, getting the light to go onto the road where it's supposed to be, and not going into the eyes of on coming traffic.

The stock r34 xenons have a very clear cut off for reflectors (of course projectors have a much cleaner cutoff). They put all of the light down onto the road, and thus, give you more light to see, and glare oncoming traffic less.

With this aftermarket kit, it basically didn't have a cutoff. The light would be scattered up. just driving along the road, even thought the headlights were pointed down, all the road signs would glow neon. This is a similar result that I got from putting a xenon kit into my r33 halogen housing.

Basically, when it comes to xenons, you have to trust me. I've mucked around with xenons so much and wasted so much money.

imo, stick with the oem unit. With other parts, yes, aftermarket is better. But with lighting, you generally (note, generally) cannot beat oem.

I have wasted over$1k on several different kits, and several different bulbs trying to 'correct' this problem.

reflector housings normally use a d2r bulb which has a painted ring around it to stop light scatter in a reflector (does not have the cutoff shield of a projector). My first kit came with a d2s bulb - designed for projectors and does nto have this ring. Initially, I attributed the glare to the lack of this ring.

I purchased another kit, which had the ring. Didn't help one bit. I learnt that this is only for motorists driving towards you, so they can't see the light source when driving passed the headlight from the side.

I have tried different brands of bulbs to no avail.

What you'll notice, is that aftermarket xenons are like a placebo effect. You think that they're fully sick and heaps brighter because they're so white, and yes, they have the potential to be brighter.

Once you see all the light scattered all over the place and how little actualyl gets ontot he road, imo, waste of time.

Halogen projectors are no better. Installing the kit into an r32 projector was ok in the cutoff department - that is, no scatter. But, the light output compared to an accord euro or a lexus gs300 - when parked next to each other, was like night and day.

Once again, stick with oem.

Edited by MANWHOR3

hmm... not being filled with much confidence putting in the Kaixen kit into my R34 then...

manwhor3: u ever try the Kaixen kits that BATMBL is selling?

So you're saying that even though my headlight assembly is designed for Xenons, putting in an aftermarket ballast and globe will still produce a scattered result?

hey marcus! good to see that project is still coming along - results should be mint :ermm:

despite the hassle of taking off the front bumper to put these xenons in, is there anything i need to keep a close eye on when putting them in? I'm not really car savy, and don't want to break anything... is it still something a newb could do? change the halogens over to Xenons?

cheers,

daniel

.

I think there is something wrong with your lights if you say the stock xenons are dim, mine are very bright!

My battery is totaly farked, if I leave the car to sit for a week or so I trouble starting it. Possibly not enough current for the lights but I'd be surprised seeing they use a step up transformer/ballast.

Or you may have differnt bulbs, never know huh.

I find them bright but what I mean is the throw of the light is pretty poor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...