Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well today I had my car at a clutch specialist to have a $30 part fixed (release bearing and some sort of spring ??). Typical visit to a mechanic, quoted $280 and walked with a $689 hole in my pocket. (Got a good deal coz the fitter was a customer of the company I work for and I told him if he treats me bad i'll cancel his dialup account muahah).

Turns out that while they were replacing this $30 part they noticed that the standard clutch was completely warn through and advised that I get a new clutch fitted while its all apart. I'm still abit sceptical over it all coz the original clutch was absolutely brilliant, infact i dare say the feel of it was the first thing i noticed when test driving the car and was the icing on the cake for the reason of my purchase. I agree'd to that so got them to replace it with an "easy to use" clutch.

The clutch that ended up being fitted was a Daikin Exedy Organic Performance Clutch and I bloody hate the thing. I'm not sure if im just a crap user of a clutch or if my old clutch was so warn that it wasn't working properly in the first place and I became so used to it being like this but man I stalled the car 3 times just trying to get out of the carpark :D

Before I could park my car in the garage (uphill driveway) without even touching the accelerator just by using the natural pull on the standard clutch, but now I have to give the thing about 1,200rpm just to move the car and about 1,500rpm + a bit of a slip to get the car relatively smoothly off the line.

The first time I changed gears (from 1st to 2nd obviously) I released the clutch like normal and nearly put my head thru the windscreen (slight over exaggeration). The whole car just rocked forward from the pressure of the clutch. Same can be said for when changing down gears..... forget using brakes the clutch pulls the car up better whilst putting my neck out of place, why would I wanna use the brakes for! I found that if I let it out slooooooowly it was much smoother but obviously nowhere near as perfectly smooth as the standard clutch :(

On the way home I drove the backstreets so I could play around with it alittle bit. I did 2 launches from 2,000rpm and man when you get the timiring right (of releasing the clutch matched with enuff revs) its a bloody slingshot its wicked. The car just launches with a squeel of my tyres and then just axel tramps (im getting that fixed next week with new rear shocks and a better setup).

Sorry if im babbling abit but I have no idea about cars and im still trying to work out if I like this thing or not.

Im hoping that this new clutch will loosen up alittle bit over the next week or 2 ? I'm really hoping so because otherwise I can see myself stalling the car atleast 3x a day which can't be too good (Let alone the idiot driver factor when crusing around places at low speeds or over speed humps).

What do you think of the pic of my clutch below ? Is it really -that- warn coz I personally have no idea it still felt great to me. The plate itself is dead smooth with those little circle bits.

All I got to say is I hope I seriously get used to this thing or it loosens up abit.

Ben.

clutch1.jpg

clutch2.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11574-new-daikin-clutch-fitted-today/
Share on other sites

Benm, that clutch looks shagged. I've got an Exedy and yes, it will 'give' a little after a few weeks. You'll also find you'll get used to it too; i stalled it the second i tried to move it from the mechanics. The bite-point is just so low, but trust me it is easy in traffic and you can ride it too... You will be happy with it; it holds on like a bastard when you're going at it - you'll love it then. And BTW, you got a good price for it :(

What do you mean shudder?

I've done 2 hill starts and I found that if I gave it the extra revs (about 1,500rpm instead of 1,200rpm) and released the clutch sloooowly (riding it a fair bit) it actually wasn't too bad, its only bad if u release slowwwwly for the first bit to get you moving then suddenly drop the rest as you get thurst thru the seat.

I think most of it is just nerves.

I'm going to drive it pretty heavily over the next 3-4 days so that I can try and get used to it quickly and also wear it in a little bit.

Don't worry Ben, you'll get used to it.

Take it easy for the first 500-1000km to let it bed in a bit, then you'll be right.

It's a big change though, I'd say your stock one was slipping a bit and that's why it felt really smooth and easy.

J

I just did a 15km round trip to get dinner and yup its deffinetly getting alot easier to handle considering the friction pressure point is about 1 inch from the floor. Even if i become lazy for half a second at a set of lights i know about it coz the revs drop and the car wants to move forward. I think im gonna have to throw it in neutral when at the lights until i get used to it.

I tried 1 launch on the way home on a flath stretch of nice smooth tar at 2,500rpm and mannnn it was awesome, 100% wheelspin but just awesome.

I think im inlove all over again (ssshh dont let the chick around the corner know).

benm, 2fardown or any1 else that knows about this clutch..

what is this clutch rated at in terms of hp or any other ratings? (like say if my car has 250kw@wheels, can it handle it?)

also is it a 9puck or something clutch? and how much to buy just the clutch?

thanks in advance!

Jay: The pedal is heavy, the first time i released the clutch it was so loaded that my foot nearly went thru my stomache hehe.

BATMBL: I can't find the clutch on the Daikin website coz it just doesn't load anything on the 'sports catalogue'.

Looking at my receipt though it cost me $418 Inc GST with $264 labour (that labour includes fitting a spigot bush)

All up it cost me $687.55

Jay: It should hold about 220 rwkW, and it is only marginally heavier than the stocker. If you are running as a streeter, with only infrequent visits to the drags etc i think it is a good solution.

BATMBL, a 9 puck or button clutch has sections on the friction surface cut out (see how the clutch benm posted above is complete all the way around?) This is to aid the instantaneous take up of the clutch, and it will hold on better - more force on smaller area. These clutches are a pain to use in everyday traffic. They are basically like a switch; in or out, no 'slipping' to aid you in slow take offs. If you are running high HP and can afford to, i would go for a twin plate instead; they hold on well and should be easier to drive in traffic etc.

I'm not sure exactly what clutch i have in mine (er, yes), but it's some sort of fairly heavy duty single-plate aftermarket.

At first it was a real bitch to get used to.. but now i'm pretty efficient with it. I'm not sure whether my clutch play has improved heaps (maybe, maybe not?), or the clutch has worn in a bit more.

I have a feeling it takes a while to wear in a bit (well maybe thats the start of wearing out :( but either way!), and you can let it out a bit more slowly and it won't just "grab" so much. The key is just to build the revs to about 2,000rpm, and then let the clutch out slowly, and not just floor it (unless of course you don't have cars in front of you). Although I'd say riding the clutch too much is going to wear it out, but what can you do in bumper to bumper traffic.

Even just building some of the right leg muscles up takes a bit of time I think, especially if you are used to an easy previous clutch.

  • 3 weeks later...
its a bloody slingshot its wicked. The car just launches with a squeel of my tyres

and

im still trying to work out if I like this thing or not.

are mutually exclusive phrases... read it again ben, then tell me whether you can put up with it? Also, this'll last you forever as you never turn the boost up!! ROFL!!!

:)

I like the clutch now coz its had over 500km to bed in. Feels almost normal except it gives a better 'sling-shot' effect.

Do I need to turn the boost up ? I only turn it up when I -have- to.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...