Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wrapped my new dump pipe today..

is it done good enough?

i initially sprayed it with a heat proof paint from thermo tec and also used their ex wrap...

is there any sort of sealer that goes over the top??

here are pics

dumpwrapped.jpg

dumpwrappedclose.jpg

excuse the mess

Looks pretty good Silv. how'd ya go getting the manifolds done??

Looks ok, but next time you do it wrap from the bottom up, not top to bottom. This way you don thave the exposed edge facing up for water/moisture and dirt etc to settle in...make sense?

Also, be interesting to see how you go with that black paint...personally i will never use that rubbishg again. First can stopped workign after about 5 seconds leaving me with a uselass $50 can full of hi-temp silicon spray for exhaust wrap that i couldnt get out of the can :) Then after one track day any part of exposed wrap that got sprayed goes brittle and crumbles away whilst the unsprayed/natural wrap was fine. Even today the stuff that didnt get sprayed looks much healthier ?!?!

If someone can tell me where i went wrong with the applciation of the spray it would be greatly appreciated.

And lol, wait until you try and exhaust wrap your manifold :)

Looks ok, but next time you do it wrap from the bottom up, not top to bottom. This way you don thave the exposed edge facing up for water/moisture and dirt etc to settle in...make sense?

Also, be interesting to see how you go with that black paint...personally i will never use that rubbishg again. First can stopped workign after about 5 seconds leaving me with a uselass $50 can full of hi-temp silicon spray for exhaust wrap that i couldnt get out of the can :) Then after one track day any part of exposed wrap that got sprayed goes brittle and crumbles away whilst the unsprayed/natural wrap was fine. Even today the stuff that didnt get sprayed looks much healthier ?!?!

If someone can tell me where i went wrong with the applciation of the spray it would be greatly appreciated.

And lol, wait until you try and exhaust wrap your manifold :)

im not even going to bother with the manifold!

reason why i started from the top was just incase i ran out, which i did... but i clamped up the start anyway so theres no gaps

it was the 50ft 1" stuff

managed to do 3/4 of it.. the un wrapped part is under the car so should be fine while driving

you competition coating the manifold anyway arent you john?

Its good, but i found its not good enough to protect the wiring on th einner guard when you are upo the thign adn the manifold is glowign red. Even with the Ceramic Coating i would suggest you look at sheathign of the loom/wiring around it or additional means of heat shields etc.

Looks much better than my efforts. Unfortunately due to the design of my dumps I could only wrap up to the O2 sensor bung, leaving about an inch unwrapped before the flange :)

Roy: I had no problems with the spray, and it should only set you back $20ish. I don't think its just the spray that makes it go brittle, I think its a property of the actual wrap.

Its good, but i found its not good enough to protect the wiring on th einner guard when you are upo the thign adn the manifold is glowign red. Even with the Ceramic Coating i would suggest you look at sheathign of the loom/wiring around it or additional means of heat shields etc.

i already have thermo tec adheisive heat shielding here also

looks good my tips are:

maybe a bit overboard with the clamps.

and like troy said wrap the other way. he's not talking about just the first bit which is clamped, but all along the pipe as the wrap overlaps.

when i'm wrapping stuff i do it with a little face mask and some gloves, and sit the pipe on the concrete, then have a buckt of water next to you. pull the wrap through the water as you wrap. then wait till it's dry and paint with the flame proof 1500degree paint, or as troy did just leave it au naturale.

Stupid question (and sorry to hijack :ermm:) but where does one get wrap and flameproof paint from to paint over it (ala Beer Baron styles). Just got my dump pipe made and want to try and contain the heat somewhat.

Is it something that mopst places sell like Autobarn?

Stupid question (and sorry to hijack :ermm:) but where does one get wrap and flameproof paint from to paint over it (ala Beer Baron styles). Just got my dump pipe made and want to try and contain the heat somewhat.

Is it something that mopst places sell like Autobarn?

Revolution Racegear sells the DEI branded variety.

Stupid question (and sorry to hijack :D) but where does one get wrap and flameproof paint from to paint over it (ala Beer Baron styles). Just got my dump pipe made and want to try and contain the heat somewhat.

Is it something that mopst places sell like Autobarn?

or

american auto's.... auto one... modyourcar.com

they stock ThermoTec

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...