Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

theres a strange knocking sound (like metal on metal) coming from my left hand side front suspension. it sounds like something is loose or metal on metal when i go over bumps. ive had a mechanic look at it and he said nothings loose, the wheel bearing and ball joint is fine. the mechanic said the shock may be botteming out whatever that means. its been to a suspension shop recently for a suspension check and they also said everythings good. so its been to 2 places and both say nothings loose etc, but it really dosent sound right as the noise is fairly loud and is only coming from that side. personally i think it may be the shock as the HA coilovers are pretty old but anyone elses ideas and opinions would be greatly appreciatted. thanks.

I've had this noise before and it was the exhaust hitting underneath the car. It may not be that in your case but if you haven't checked already, see how much clearance there is between the exhaust and floorpan. With the car that had it I couldn't even fit my fingers around the top. I think the engine mount might also have something to do with it, if it's worn it will allow the engine to flex up more over bumps and stuff and cause the exhaust to hit up even if there is enough of a gap. On my current car I have the opposite problem, too much of a gap there which means it hangs too low and hits the speed hump instead :ban:

If your Tein HAs have pillio ball tops, then id bet money is that they are worn...hence the bumping noise. You can tell if you have pillio ball tops asw they currently used anodised shock tops, so have a look in your engine bay and see if there is an anodised alloy plate visible through where the shock bolts to the body

yeah its defn the upper pillowball mounts..

im in the same problem..

guess what.. they are not cheap!! ... i am thinking about getting new shocks alltogether cause of it..

man mine makes a loud ass noise.. embarrassed to drive ppl in it :) ..

maybe we should go get new stuff or front upperball mounts together,, get a small group buy deal :thumbsup:

cheers,

JD

JD Give www.shockreco.com.au a call and see what they can do for you.

They are in queensland but they were the only ones in australia that i and many workshops know of that do recodition,id say all brands of shockies,back to their stock specifycations.

I sent them through australia post to Queensland,as well giving them the return p/h monies up front so no dilemmas in sending it back asap.

Worth a try.The price i found was reasonable also.

  • 2 weeks later...

anyone know a price of the pillow joints? my recently purchased Tein HR shocks are knocking pretty bad. I now know why he was selling them!! Got someone to drive whilst i was in the boot and could feel them knocking.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...