Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The pipe that goes from the cooler to the throttle its got a 1cm diameter smaller hose connected to the side of it that goes to a t-junction and then i dunno where. Its neart the pwr steering liquid.

My question is this: on the piping kit i got there is no hole there for that hose to go into. Does any1 know what that little hose is and do i have to connect it to the new piping?

Thanx guys,

ur help will be GREATLY appreciated

The pipe that goes from the cooler to the throttle its got a 1cm diameter smaller hose connected to the side of it that goes to a t-junction and then i dunno where. Its neart the pwr steering liquid.

My question is this: on the piping kit i got there is no hole there for that hose to go into. Does any1 know what that little hose is and do i have to connect it to the new piping?

Thanx guys,

ur help will be GREATLY appreciated

1cm smaller than the cooler pipe? or do u mean a 1cm diameter hose, like a vaccum line? maybe for a guage if its a vaccum line? did u get a set of instructions with the cooler kit, and what cooler kit u got/whered u get it from? if its specific for ur car, it may have a mention for it. from my understanding, the line was there previously, it didnt come with the cooler kit...

Edited by VB-

i mean a 1cm in diameter hose like a vacuum line as u said. I don't have any afta market gauges. I got the piping from hypergear and it doesn't have instructions, its specific for my car.

Yea the line was on the stock pipe but there is no hole in the new pipes to allow for this line.

i mean a 1cm in diameter hose like a vacuum line as u said. I don't have any afta market gauges. I got the piping from hypergear and it doesn't have instructions, its specific for my car.

Yea the line was on the stock pipe but there is no hole in the new pipes to allow for this line.

probably u best bet would be to chase the vaccum lines, and see where they go to. if its before the throttle body, its probly not a guage, but it's probly there for a reason. it may not be necessary, but find out where the line runs to, or wait for sumone whose done a cooler on the same car

Don't know if it's too late, but with my kit I got a t-piece & a hose about 3ft long, just get someone who know's about this to show you what line to cut, whack in the t-piece & run it back. The pic shows where mine ran from which is what you're asking about. I think the line in question is something to do with the factory boost controller.

For the record this is when my car didn't have 350rwhp. :P

post-17137-1146937707.jpg

Don't know if it's too late, but with my kit I got a t-piece & a hose about 3ft long, just get someone who know's about this to show you what line to cut, whack in the t-piece & run it back. The pic shows where mine ran from which is what you're asking about. I think the line in question is something to do with the factory boost controller.

For the record this is when my car didn't have 350rwhp. :P

So basically, u run this little hose to another hose and connect it via t-piece.

Question is what hose u run it to?

any vacuum line off the intake piping there is one to the charcol canister

Thanx dude,

Just to clarify is is better to put it to the hose that connects to ur boost gauge?

Or better to put to the holse that connects to BOV/actuator?

Don't know if it's too late, but with my kit I got a t-piece & a hose about 3ft long, just get someone who know's about this to show you what line to cut, whack in the t-piece & run it back. The pic shows where mine ran from which is what you're asking about. I think the line in question is something to do with the factory boost controller.

For the record this is when my car didn't have 350rwhp. :(

Hey with the pipe that goes past/near the timing belt, did u have to cut the fan a little?

cut the fan ,took about 10mm off mine. Take off the whole fan to do it, i used a jigsaw. do one blade then use the offcut as a template to mark the rest. I used some sandpaper to clean up the edges. good luck wit it.......

cut the fan ,took about 10mm off mine. Take off the whole fan to do it, i used a jigsaw. do one blade then use the offcut as a template to mark the rest. I used some sandpaper to clean up the edges. good luck wit it.......

Thanx for the advice much appreciated it. Me and my friend basically mounted it so it wouldn't touch but it seems a little dodgy and it still moves around a bit. I might take ur advice and just cut the fan. Thanx again

Progress report:

Sat night: 9pm - 2am.

At my mates house, my mate ditches me so he can spend time with his g/f. So being a absolute N00b, takes me 5 hours to remove bodykit, front bar, stock piping and stock cooler. My mate did however manage to drill out a screw i happend to shred.

Sun

Even tho my mate said he would be up at 9am to help, he gets up at 11 then goes straight to work. Oh well at least i get to use his tools.

My other mate with a 180 comes around and we manage to mount the cooler and with the help of another guy that was walking past in the street, manage to get all the piping done on the hot side.

We had to use some pvc since the alluminium piping i got didnt quite fit in place. It was difficult to get rubber/silicon on this PVC.

Also as mentioned in the post above, half the cold side piping is done, altho in a dodgy fashion as to prevent the piping hitting the radiator fan.

Tommorrow

Finish uni at 5

Will have to finish cold side pipe, ie drill a hole in the chasis to fit the cold pipe from the intercooler to the adjoining piece.

Also will have to decide where to put my horn and also where to connect the loose vacuum hose to.

Hopefully this all will be done by the end of Monday, thus i will be able to drive my car

You used PVC....OMG...

Please stop there and take it to someone who knows that the f**k they are doing...

ease up!

there was a topic on the use of pvc as intercooler piping and the people who have tried it said that it worked just fine. even if it aint as pretty as shiney sparkely aluminium.

dont get on his back just for that, eh?

its a bit harsh.

Progress report:

a screw i happend to shred.

with the help of another guy that was walking past in the street,
We had to use some pvc
half the cold side piping is done, altho in a dodgy fashion

LOL!!!! this is sounding like proper bush mechanic!!! good luck!!!!

LOL, u guys are funny. I fixed it up so that the pipe so it mounts properly, and doesnt look dodgy. I snipped the fan blades so it fits now.

Tomorrow or Wednesday i goto:

1) drill hole on driver's side and connect the cold pipe. estimated time: 1.5hrs

2) rellocate the horns somewhere (any good ideas?) estimated time: 0.5hrs

3) Trim the front bumber bar and put it back on estimated time: 2hrs

4) Connect the stock boost controller back to the BOV hose and t-piece it estimated time: 0.5hrs

5) Put front bodykit back on estimated time: 0.5hrs

6) Goto the guy who i bought the kit off and abuse him for giving me the wrong size hot pipe. (this is where i had to use the pvc)

estimated time: 2hrs

7) Get a refund for hose from that guy since he gave me the wrong sizes and i had to buy my own

estimated time: 0.5hrs (due to arguments)

8) Possibly remount the cooler off the bumper bar (atm it is mounted from the chasis bar running along the top)

estimated time: 2hrs

Oh yea, all these time could be halved if my mate helped me instead of spending every fricken second wit his g/f.

Pics will be up soon guys, hang in there for me

Edited by Taso84

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...