Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

I am tossing up between 2 dump pipes..

1) BOS IMPORTING

2) CES RACING

Who here has either of these and what was the power increase after install?

BOS IMPORTING one seems better value for money, but the CES one claims very good gains..

Opinions?

Cheers :laugh:

-JD

PS: talking 33 gtst's

Edited by JD-33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116863-dump-pipes/
Share on other sites

I am looking at getting one myself...

This is what I have at the moment, I am guessing it is stock?

dump10yx.jpg

dump27eg.jpg

yeah pretty much stock looking. mine is like that too..

Ive decided that im gonna go for the BOS IMPORTING one (only because of all the replies to it in this thread :P ) ... haha

-JD

Will let you know how it goes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116863-dump-pipes/#findComment-2152163
Share on other sites

the one my mate has is just the split dump pipe and its split for about 10-15cm. i'm just going dump only as the car came with a 3" front pipe and i can't see the point in spending $400 when i can get away with $150. if i didn't have a 3" front pipe i'd get one of the BOS ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116863-dump-pipes/#findComment-2155079
Share on other sites

screamers are illegal and can be bloody loud.

people dont seem to worry about screamer pipes as much as say no cat .. but the penalties are the same.

you shouldn't see any difference in spool times as this split system only really come into effect once the wastegate opens, therefore it is already at full boost.

noticed on my old setup that it would rev out much cleaner after the 5-5.5K rpm range ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116863-dump-pipes/#findComment-2155604
Share on other sites

hey guys just wondering i just bought one of these split dump pipes but now i have gone for a high flowed turbo and has much more room behind the turbo in between the wastgate and the exaust . would it make a big difference if i dont have the little metal bit in between to seperate these two?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116863-dump-pipes/#findComment-2156129
Share on other sites

yes the little bit, or divider is half the point of a split dump. without the metal divider between the two they are still likely to cause excess backpressure.

imho a split dump without the divider is kinda pointless

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116863-dump-pipes/#findComment-2156226
Share on other sites

i ought the split dump pipe from just jap and was told that it was for the hks turbo so i took it off and it is lost but looking at the gap on the high flowed turbo, it has plenty of room for the metal to split the pipes does anyone know when i can get just the spliter part from?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116863-dump-pipes/#findComment-2156383
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...