Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The HYDRA has only been in australia for about 2 years

but its been in america for 6

its only fresh on the market

it was started here by matt @ MDAC and now he is giving up on them as people wont give them a try

i got one for my car and as a Dyno tuner myself aint going back to another ECU.The Owner of the company from overseas has asked me to wholesale them and currently i am setting up to become the Australian HYDRA distributor.

They are one of the best ecus and as i said gives you alot of tuning capabilities and aux`s that the Power fc hasnt got.

Its all programed Via a laptop and doesnt have any hand controllers

The electronic boost controller being able to control different sensors and controlling boost better then the Turbosmart Eboost.

Also runs a closed loop auto tune which pretty much tunes itself for you

the Tuning capabilities of it are just as good as haltech but with more Aux`s and More tuning Maps.

They currently are designing the digitial dashes which show Water temp,Rev,Boost,Duty,Knock,Speed,Ign & inlet Air temps

which should be up and running in the next few months

Edited by MR331307
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

How does it handle autotune? What sensors does it need for autotune?

Does it support the factory knock sensors?

Does it support the factory airflow meter out of the box?

How does it go as far as cold start and idle control?

Does it come with a base map?

Is it a plug and play ECU or does it need wire changes?

What is supported via AUX?

Does it come with an optional air temp sensor?

Many places remap the standard ECU

but its pretty expensive

anything from $500 to $1000

and ill say i wouldnt waste the time and money

better of buying an aftermarket ecu giving you the unlimited capabilty of tuning and changing things

The power limit on the Emange is uncertain i dont know what Hp there recommended for but as for the HYDRA its got no limitation and always is upgradable with new Software and Sensors.

Also the Hydra runs all factory Sensors such as the Knock and water temp sensors

The Engine light also acts like a Knock light telling you how much the engine is knocking.The Ecu also gives you a Knock map allowing you to retard timing and add more fuel

How does it handle autotune? What sensors does it need for autotune?

Does it support the factory knock sensors?

Does it support the factory airflow meter out of the box?

How does it go as far as cold start and idle control?

Does it come with a base map?

Is it a plug and play ECU or does it need wire changes?

What is supported via AUX?

Does it come with an optional air temp sensor?

*Autotune needs the Factory O2 sensor apart from that Nothing else

*Supports Factory Knocks Sensors

*Doesnt support the Factory AIR FLOW METER as this gets removed with the MAP SENSOR which is 3 bar from Factory

*Cold start mapping is In the ecu Varying from Cranking to Water Temp To air Temp

* idle control is controled Via factory Solonoid

*It has a base map

*It is a Plug and play ECU

*Aux Supports-Nitrous,Anti Lag,Launch Control,Thermo Fans,Boost Soloniods,Water Sprayers,Guages,Warning Lights,Dash Lights EG engine Light (theres more but i currently carnt remember tooooo Tired)

*It comes with the Opitional Air Temp Sensor

Anything Else you need to know

Edited by MR331307

This is fast turning into another pointless MAP vs MAF debate.

And i think we have had enough of them over the past 6 months or so.

Both sides, pro and con have been put forward.

Its not upto you, the users to decide.

The whole - Auto R33 ECU thing has been covered aswell. People have gone to great trouble do do write-ups on them so far :O

Search button is your friend

I have one comment to make on something thats nearly had me spit my water across the room however, then ill just watch this thread unfold into another debate (and get locked)

1 majour bad thing about the Air flow meter is that it restricts air flow

bullshit

You can use any o2 sensor

i use the Bosch 4 wire same as the ones used on the dyno dynamics dyno

but all you need for the auto tune is the standard sensor

The way it works is you set a map like the Fuel map and in a map which goes RPM x Boost you adjust what A/fs you want Eg from 14.7 on Idle to 11.5 on 18 psi

now when thrashing the car the car adjusts itself to give you these A/fs where you have set them.just like how you adjust fuel m/s

correction: manual neo stagea so all but the same as R34 with atessa controlled awd.

Sorry champ thought it was an auto

any ways

ill check and get back to you

so does the AWD system work off the ECU or just the Speed of the car

i wouldt think the ECU would control that as well

doesnt the Stagea have an AWD computer in the rear.

This is fast turning into another pointless MAP vs MAF debate.

And i think we have had enough of them over the past 6 months or so.

Both sides, pro and con have been put forward.

Its not upto you, the users to decide.

The whole - Auto R33 ECU thing has been covered aswell. People have gone to great trouble do do write-ups on them so far :)

Search button is your friend

I have one comment to make on something thats nearly had me spit my water across the room however, then ill just watch this thread unfold into another debate (and get locked)

bullshit

man i aint gonna talk to you

last time i did you kicked me off

you just leave me alone ok :):O

You can use any o2 sensor

i use the Bosch 4 wire same as the ones used on the dyno dynamics dyno

but all you need for the auto tune is the standard sensor

The way it works is you set a map like the Fuel map and in a map which goes RPM x Boost you adjust what A/fs you want Eg from 14.7 on Idle to 11.5 on 18 psi

now when thrashing the car the car adjusts itself to give you these A/fs where you have set them.just like how you adjust fuel m/s

The bosch 4 wires are fast and wide 02 sensors used on dyno's and wideband systems.

But you've said here the slow and narrow sensor can be used in "autotune" mode.

Using any 02 sensor is not suitable. The standard slow and narrow sensor is not useful enough to do a fuel map tune. It is only use for closed loop feedback. It can't even measure outside it's narrow range.

Right and so what happens you hit 18psi and more air is coming, does it just lean out ?

pretty much as you describe, i understand the atessa (located in the rear) takes an rpm and speed signal from the ECU.

the issue for me will be can an R34 powerFC be shoehorned into the stagea, still waiting for a copy of the pinouts to send to the tuner to see how hard it will be to modify one. i prefer the powerFC due to the overwhelming support of them/currently use one on an R33. however, if i get stuck i am looking for a decent alternative.

man i aint gonna talk to you

last time i did you kicked me off

you just leave me alone ok :):O

wasnt me actually, i dont have access to ban unfortunately :)

I would say it was Admins who got sick of your attitude, nothing to do with me.

The bosch 4 wires are fast and wide 02 sensors used on dyno's and wideband systems.

But you've said here the slow and narrow sensor can be used in "autotune" mode.

Using any 02 sensor is not suitable. The standard slow and narrow sensor is not useful enough to do a fuel map tune. It is only use for closed loop feedback. It can't even measure outside it's narrow range.

Right and so what happens you hit 18psi and more air is coming, does it just lean out ?

What you mean by more air comming in

if you are tuning the map to suit 18 psi you shouldnt get more air coming in then whats already there

if your getting more air you will be getting more boost if your getting more boost you aint running 18 psi which will then resolved in a boost cut which activates 3 psi higher then the boost you have set

pretty much as you describe, i understand the atessa (located in the rear) takes an rpm and speed signal from the ECU.

the issue for me will be can an R34 powerFC be shoehorned into the stagea, still waiting for a copy of the pinouts to send to the tuner to see how hard it will be to modify one. i prefer the powerFC due to the overwhelming support of them/currently use one on an R33. however, if i get stuck i am looking for a decent alternative.

If all it takes is a RPM and Speed signal

you can set this off the AUX settings in the ecu

i can say then that this ECU will work in your application

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...