Engine Oils And Additives

[Terminal]

yeah i don't know how much Belconnen Nissan know about the stagea. every time i ring up to get parts it takes them about 5 minutes to know what i'm talking about. hopefully it's the same as their patrol, i think they share gearboxes.

[george.bryant]

really bad for your automatic filling it to the brim (if you didnt already know). Ring any garage or Nissan they'll tell ya

[sy300]

I get my car serviced by a local Nissan workshop.

They use semi-synthetic 10W40 (unsure of brand, will see if it is listed on invoice). I've heard a lot of talk about using 'X' brand of oil because everything else is sh!t, from various people. I've come to the conclusion that if you are changing it regularly, any decent name brand is fine.

Haven't had to get the trans, transfer case or diffs serviced yet. All done by the dealer when it was imported and haven't done enough km's to need it yet.

[3intheBack]

A dry auto will take a bucket load more oil then one thats been drained for a service as a lot of oil will stay in the lines leading to and from the cooler, plus in the cooler itself, plus a couple of litres in the torque converter.

Thats why no dealer can tell you how much to put in becasue you dont know how much was left in there.

Draining as per AC's post above helps drain a bit more. The only fill point on any box I've seen is thru the dip stick. Use a funnel and get comfortable as it is a slow process.

Then use the dipstick to check while engine running in neutral. Check about 5 times, cause you wont be able to read it.

[Terminal]

i've decided to not bother and just put the manual box in. too much hassle servicing 2 gearboxes, may as well just do one.

[stasis]

BTW does anybody knows wheter if i can fit a R34 GTR 6 soeed transmission into a 260rs?

[stasis]

just thought of reviving this thread

Just want to know what oils you guys use for the engine ? What pric you paid for it? ANd wat spec (eg : 10w-40 ETC)

As you guys know im currently using Castrol 10w-60 and they costs like $72/5ltr from autobarn in the melbourne city. I can get Mobil1 15w-50 for abit less like $72 if i remember correctly.

[george.bryant]

Today I purchased Valvoline 5-30w it cost me NZD$48 but is normally around NZD$60 apparently.

I'll post more details about it when I get home. Its for a L20ET motor in my r30.

I blew the turbo on it and when I drained the old oil only 1.4 litres came out!! That explains the turbo blowing...(sounds logical doesnt it?)

[66yostagea]

Today I purchased Valvoline 5-30w it cost me NZD$48 but is normally around NZD$60 apparently.

I'll post more details about it when I get home. Its for a L20ET motor in my r30.

I blew the turbo on it and when I drained the old oil only 1.4 litres came out!! That explains the turbo blowing...(sounds logical doesnt it?)

Couple of quick quiz questions for you George, as this is a STAGEA discussion forum.

1. What the f@#k are you doing here in the first place?

2. If you got just 1.4L of oil out of a sump that normally carries 4.5L how often do you check it??

3. It's normally acceptable to think oil changes in anything turbo should be more frequent than n/a! &

4. Oils aint oils to coin a phrase from the past, and Valvoline is more a consumer grade oil rather than a performance product. What about Castrol Edge, or Motul, or Mobil 1, or Royal Purple, or Nissan in the grades you speak of. Are you aware that in a recent test study the Nissan 7.5W-30 product performed better than 9 other competitors. Another product being trialed in the market place is Nulon oils & additives and costs less than the NZ$48.00 and has up to 39% less friction that it's competitors.

Cheers, D.

Ghostrider

Holidaying on beautiful Mt Tamborine

[GorGasm]

i have that valvoline synpower synthetic 5w-40 in mine at the moment.

No worries, runs just dandy.

And i dont see why ol george cant post here?

[Ska]

Yeah think calm blue ocean hugh, calm blue ocean

[stasis]

ohh shoot!!wat have i done. think blue ocean and ice cold beer!!!

BTW have anyone used the nulon's stuff? As in engine oil?

Edited January 23, 2007 by stasis

[neostagea]

i haven't used the nulon oils before but i have been able to see the friction testing carried out by the API for testing of the oils and they are quite impressive showing less friction than some other big name brands. as for these oils they state semi synthetic which means that it can be as little as 30%. and their are 3 ways of actually producing synthetic oils which differ greatly in cost and nulon use the cheaper of the 3. the only downside to the cheaper method is that it actually breaks down greater over the period of the useage cycle of the oil. this is where you will find a great deal of difference of pricing within the oils. now for certain i know the mobil 1 uses the more expensive way of production as does castrol edge with the 0W-40 and 10W-60 but their 5W30 only uses the cheaper version of production.

jeez thats out now. as i have found out there is so much different in oils and the way they are made it is just incredible.

(how i know a lot of this is that i manage a Supercheap Auto store and have been to numerous training days run by the oils companies)

also if you paid over $70 for the edge oils just go to supercheap and u will save yourself a bit of cash. also use the pure one oils filters they are superior to the factory nissan filters

[Ghostrider]

Ahh finally i met somebody who uses mobil as well

For what it's worth, the US Zed guys recommend Mobil 1 10W-30 and they consider anything thicker than 30 grade to be GLUE!

As the Qld Stagea guys know, or those that were at the rally in November do, my cruiser/daily driver is an 1UZ powered MX83 Cressida and I use Nulon 10W-30 in that at the moment, but!

My HR30 PNV has everything MOBIL 100% Synthetic.

Mobil 1 10W-30 motor oil, Mobiltemp 220 in the bearings, Mobil 75W-90 gearbox & LSD

Cheers, D

[Ghostrider]

Yeah think calm blue ocean hugh, calm blue ocean

Settle Ska,

It was me and not Hugh that left that message, although he did see it before it was posted.

What you guys don't know about Mr Bryant is this, he asks heaps of questions, sometimes a lot of sh!t, has asked me personally for help with parts and then disappears into the dust without a word. He has in Classics abused everyone and told us all we were a useless bunch because we couldn't solve one of his problems.

When I last heard from him his car was OFF THE ROAD because his headlight combination switch was stuffed, I asked him for plug configurations as these combo switch assemblies come in 4 varieties. N12 Pulsar ET Turbo, Some Patrols, Early and late R30's and as he is in NZ I wanted to be sure which one he had before I sent it as I have found them all on R30 Skylines. Now this was months ago and now he's saying his turbo is stuffed, how come if he couldn't drive it with his light switch problem.

He managed to solve a broken stud (#6 rear manifold) problem, without having to remove the engine, but as yet and after numerous requests to do so, hasn't shared his newly acquired knowledge as to HOW!

We just think he could be more thoughtful and give some information instead of just taking it and then we might have more respect for him on all SAU forums.

Some might have forgotten why SAU was set up, primarily because the Kiwi's (SDU) didn't want to know us.

Cheers, D

[stasis]

have you guys heard of royal purple or Amsoil? I heard they are really good better than mobil or motul.

[Chris_R33GTSt]

I was running Amsoil 10w40 full synth until I could get Kendall 10W40 Mineral. Kendall is the most amazing oil I have ever used. It has a very high temp rating so there is no risk of it thinning out in the turbo. Used it in every race bike I have ever run and it is amazing. It basically stops any engine wear to the point where you cannot use it to run in a engine.

BTW Amsoil is awesome oil, just look at some of the off shore powerboats running Amsoil... Insanity

Edited January 25, 2007 by Chris_R33GTSt

[stasis]

Where can you get Kendall and how much? How much was the Amsoil?

[Chris_R33GTSt]

I know that the refinery that produces Kendall got taken out in the New Orleans flood and I am actually using 20W50 atm in my line as it is all I can get. Reason im not too worried is that the stuff is magic. As long as I warm it up first it is fine

I can ask my mechanic who his supplier is to see if you can get some. I am sure by now they will be back in production and I will grab some 10W40 which is utter magic.

I wasn't too fussed with the Amsoil but that because I have been spoiled. I reckon its better than Mobil 1 which gave me a bit of the old RB tap tap tap.

BTW Kendall is cheap as since it is mineral oil. I pay about $10 a litre.

Edited January 25, 2007 by Chris_R33GTSt

[Chris_R33GTSt]

Looking back at the invoice from that service I paid about $80 for the Amsoil. I really want to start servicing the car myself, just don't have the time.