Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

all parts located in melbourne, there taking up space so they NEED TOO GO. all off a r32 gtst

1- rb20 intake manifold - 150

1- rb20 exhaust manifold - 120

2-rb20 heads,complete with cams/journals, etc, suit rebuld, will seperate any parts off the head- 100 each

2- rb20 turbo auto gearboxes suit rebulid- 50 each

1- rb20 stock t28 turbo, suit rebuild-100

1- rb20 block, complete with pistons,rings,rods,crank etc. good nic, just needs oil galleriers cleaned- 250

1- rb20 afm,(same as z32) 80mm, needs new adapter plug- 100

1- rb20 waterpump, PERFECT condition, was put on the car for 2 months before motor was changed, works perfectley. 50

THEY NEED TO GO< AN OPORTUNITY TO GET GOOD PARTS AT GREAT PRICES

Edited by granca69
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117818-r32-gtst-cleanout/
Share on other sites

all parts located in melbourne, there taking up space so they NEED TOO GO. all off a r32 gtst

1- rb20 intake manifold - 150

1- rb20 exhaust manifold - 120

2-rb20 heads,complete with cams/journals, etc, suit rebuld, will seperate any parts off the head- 100 each

2- rb20 turbo auto gearboxes suit rebulid- 50 each

1- rb20 stock t28 turbo, suit rebuild-100

1- rb20 block, complete with pistons,rings,rods,crank etc. good nic, just needs oil galleriers cleaned- 250

1- rb20 afm,(same as z32) 80mm, needs new adapter plug- 100

1- rb20 waterpump, PERFECT condition, was put on the car for 2 months before motor was changed, works perfectley. 50

THEY NEED TO GO< AN OPORTUNITY TO GET GOOD PARTS AT GREAT PRICES

rb20 afm isn't the same as z32, its the same an rb25 one

Hello!!

How much for as much of a complete engine as you can get together ie head, block, turbo and manifold, inlet manifold, as many lines as you have towards a complete engine? Please let me know how much and what I would still need for a complete engine.

Cheers!

James

PS also freight/postage to 2281 please.

  • 2 weeks later...
all parts located in melbourne, there taking up space so they NEED TOO GO. all off a r32 gtst

1- rb20 intake manifold - 150

1- rb20 exhaust manifold - 120

2-rb20 heads,complete with cams/journals, etc, suit rebuld, will seperate any parts off the head- 100 each

2- rb20 turbo auto gearboxes suit rebulid- 50 each

1- rb20 stock t28 turbo, suit rebuild-100

1- rb20 block, complete with pistons,rings,rods,crank etc. good nic, just needs oil galleriers cleaned- 250

1- rb20 afm,(same as z32) 80mm, needs new adapter plug- 100

1- rb20 waterpump, PERFECT condition, was put on the car for 2 months before motor was changed, works perfectley. 50

THEY NEED TO GO< AN OPORTUNITY TO GET GOOD PARTS AT GREAT PRICES

hey man you wouldnt have an r32 gtst air box would you? pm me if you do

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of the trim pieces on the E39 are super brittle and just dissolve when you try to get them off. It looks like a previous owner has used what can only be described as an industrial construction foam adhesive to glue down a tiny piece of trim.  Unfortunately this part of the tailgate is starting to rust because of how much shit is in here. This is stopping the water draining and there's a big build-up of dirt that is just staying wet. How can I remove this? Would a flap disc get rid of this?  I think this car spent a lot of time inland. There's so much light coloured, fine dirt and dust everywhere.  Sorry for the pic. I've cleaned this all up now so I'll get another pic of it clean today.
    • Surely, just about any shop that has done a Skyline (or Supra, or RX-7, or EVO, or WRX) will have done E85. But perhaps you need to specify what type of car, what type of engine, what ECU, you propose to be using.
    • Try an oil additive. There's a couple of options for "easier shifting". These are essentially a similar idea to what Redline put into their Shockproof gear oils. I had a 2nd hand R33 (in fact, as of right now, it is still in the car) that simply would not engage any gear with the engine running, with normal gear oil in it. We dropped that and replaced it with Shockproof lightweight, and suddenly the gear lever did what it was supposed to. At a cost, of course, of the then ongoing damage to internals done by running Shockproof. But the synchros were already totally uninterested in life, so there was no loss.
    • It always ends with the car burning down.
    • I see what you posted, but how could a warning light be going on and off if there is no sender for it?  The only other explanation is that the wire that used to go to the sender from the warning light is earthing somehow in the loom or at the connector, or that you have connected the warning light wire to something (maybe the temp sender?).  
×
×
  • Create New...