Time To Rebuild The Rb26

[Turbz_13]

how r ya guys, time to rebuild the rb26, went bang...well clunk clunk clunk. i have a fair idea wgat i want to do with it... n1 oil, water pumps, bearins, r33 n1 crank etc.

how strong are the n1 pistons and rods? and what would the price on this stuff be? or would i b better off buying some other brands(non-nissan)

1 last thing i am chasing 350-400awkw's keeping the engine at the 2.6L capacity and with low mount turbos...is this possible. i know this will b laggy as a mother f**ker.

cheers

[Amaru]

Dont bother with N1 rods and pistons, you can get a brand new set of Eagle rods and Arias forged pistons that will happily cope with what you are after for less than the genuine Nissan items. Also check out what SydneyKid has had to say about N1 water pumps on street cars, not a great idea overall.

As for the crank... good luck. Nissan AU and JP have been out of stock of RB26 cranks for quite some time, and no signs of them returning any time soon. Just cross your fingers your crank isnt stuffed beyond repair otherwise youre going to have to try and find a good second hand one. Make sure if you keep the R32 crank you get the crank collar fitted. Pro Engines can supply them for a very good price.

[R31Nismoid]

Stock crank is fine mate

Stock rods are fine aswell.

Just get a good set of forgies and away you go.

As stated, there are NO cranks in AUS at the min.

You'll have to have your one inspected and tested, then a collar fitting to it

[RNGTR]

Yep, agree with Ash, Im in the ballpark power figure you're chasing with low mounts, stock crank & rods will be fine.

...and mine isnt laggy.

[Turbz_13]

what are some good beariing to use? and what kinda price do these go for?

what kinda power can i get off the stock rods before they become sketchy?

also will i need to find a block restrictor for the n1 oil pump?

im starting to get parts together for my build so i wll prob ask as many q's as possible as i go...cheers for the help so far!!

Edited May 16, 2006 by Turbz_13

[R31Nismoid]

what are some good beariing to use? and what kinda price do these go for?

what kinda power can i get off the stock rods before they become sketchy?

also will i need to find a block restrictor for the n1 oil pump?

im starting to get parts together for my build so i wll prob ask as many q's as possible as i go...cheers for the help so far!!

400rwkw give or take, in saying that i've never read one post on here about one failing, or heard of it from where i take mine

As for the oil, in detail here (search button is your friend )

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=110680&hl=

[Craved]

head oil restrictor - http://www.hioctaneracing.com.au/ in parramatta .. $13

ACL race bearings - cant get them til you measure the clearances etc on your crank pistons, and main bearings.

[Amaru]

Have seen stock rods coping with 600kw at the flywheel, the weakest part of them is the bolts. Get a set of ARP 2000 rod bolts and the standard ones will cope fine with what you want (I have been running over 300rwkw for almost 3 years on a set of prepped standard rods. Just pulled them out recently and they are still in perfect condition).

As for the oil gallery restrictor, its included when you buy the Tomei gasket kit or you can buy it seperately. Once again, Pro Engines can supply them (pro engines basically copy alot of the jap stuff and sell it for half the price. Just as good quality, sometimes even better, e.g jun style sump baffling, jun style crank collar etc).

[Turbz_13]

its a bugga about the n1 cranks being sold out!! im now considering stroking it out to a 2.7L...but that means the car will b off the road longer. even bigger cost to rebuild!

[R31Nismoid]

I still dont get why your talking about an N1 crank mate?

The stock GTR (non N1) crank is perfectly fine for your goal.

Im using a stock R33 GTR crank (non N1) as just about everyone else who is under 400rwkw... give or take

Just get your stock one looked at, and a collar fitted if it comes up fine after testing, which its likely to pass anyhow

[saliya]

its a bugga about the n1 cranks being sold out!! im now considering stroking it out to a 2.7L...but that means the car will b off the road longer. even bigger cost to rebuild!

If you're seriously considering a stroker have a look at

http://www.crower.com/cat/stroker.shtml

- they have a great rep, and the pricetag ($US5500) has to make you ask 'are those Jap kits really worth the extra $5k?'

Regards,

Saliya

[R31Nismoid]

Jap kits are not another 5k more at all.

What are you basing that statement on anyway?

Convert the pricetag to AUSD and suddenly the lowend stroker kits are cheaper.

Please remember they come in varying levels with varying price tags

The fact you dont have to wait 16 weeks is also a large advantage to the Jap kits

Time is money if you've got a car sitting in a workshop.

[saliya]

Jap kits are not another 5k more at all.

What are you basing that statement on anyway?

Convert the pricetag to AUSD and suddenly the lowend stroker kits are cheaper.

Hi,

Converted it's around $AU7200. OK, Jap kits are about $2k cheaper now than the last time I looked,

but please post location information for a brand-name Jap kit (like Tomei, Jun, etc)

of comparable quality (i.e. billet crank, billet rods, forged pistons and ancilliaries)

which I can buy for less than that. A quick search reveals an average price of around $AU10k...

perhaps I'm looking in the wrong places?

The fact you dont have to wait 16 weeks is also a large advantage to the Jap kits

Time is money if you've got a car sitting in a workshop.

Well, yes, but... it depends on how long it actually takes for a Jap kit to get here - I'd rather

a supplier said 'you will wait 16 weeks' and actually have the thing turn up 16 weeks later, than say

'you will wait 3 weeks' and have the thing turn up 8-12 weeks later (which seems to happen for a

lot of the less-commonly-sold and more-expensive stuff from Japan).

Anyways, post prices and locations, and I'll update my data. Availability of a high-quality lower-cost

stroker kit for the RB26 is good news for all.

Regards,

Saliya

[Beer Baron]

yes jap kits are not that pricey. an HKS 2.8litre kit with fully forged counter balanced crank, H beam forged rods and forged pistsons is under $7K delivered to your door.

[saliya]

yes jap kits are not that pricey. an HKS 2.8litre kit with fully forged counter balanced crank, H beam forged rods and forged pistsons is under $7K delivered to your door.

Hi,

"On the Internet" We don't have a FTA in place with .jp yet. But let's pretend we do, so

we can compare the Nengun HKS "step 1" kit with the Crower kit I mentioned because pricewise, they're

fairly similar excluding Customs duty.

There are 3 "steps" listed for the HKS kits; and about $2k difference in price for each step.

I don't know what _exactly_ is contained within each kit; so I don't know why there is

a difference.

To compare the step 1 HKS kit with a custom Crower kit is comparing "the best" from Crower

to "the worst" from HKS on a price basis (I'm extrapolating "the worst" on a name-and-price

basis, step 1 vs step 'n', not any other reason).

I personally don't think that's an apples-with-apples comparison. If it _is_ a like-with-like comparison,

then the HKS kit is exceptionally good value (and begs the questions - why the extra $2-4k for the

other HKS steps).

Good info, regardless.

Regards,

Saliya

[R31Nismoid]

There are 3 "steps" listed for the HKS kits; and about $2k difference in price for each step.

I don't know what _exactly_ is contained within each kit; so I don't know why there is

a difference.

To compare the step 1 HKS kit with a custom Crower kit is comparing "the best" from Crower

to "the worst" from HKS on a price basis (I'm extrapolating "the worst" on a name-and-price

basis, step 1 vs step 'n', not any other reason).

As Beer Baron has also stated, they lower end kits are not that expensive.

Its not the "worst" from HKS by any means, i'd be interested to hear thier response if you told them that.

Its a major upgrade over stock, so its better than what you had previously. Depends how you look at it.

Why do you need to pay more for a crower kit if something cheaper fits into your budget, aims, and what you require.

I wouldnt pay an extra 3k say, for a crower kit becuase "its the best"

[Beer Baron]

well i would think the HKS kit is very good. some of the difference between the steps is as follows.

step 2 has coated pistons

step 3 has rods with 22mm pins and the coated pistons

they all have H beam rods, step 1 and 2 are stock pin size step 3 are 22mm pin. they all have fully forged counter balanced cranks with a stroke designed to give 2.8l capacity (not sure if there is a difference between the cranks). Step 2 and 3 have a coating on the piston crowns and skirts and step 3 have titanium coated top rings. I have to say the HKS pistons are among the nicest i've ever seen. they are a piece of work.

i think comparing the step 1 kit to the crower kit is more than fair. HKS have invested more money in HKS parts that crower could ever dream of. yes they have great rep in stroker kits, but no where near the RB26 experience of HKS who have been developing parts specifically for RB26 since ~1990.

anyway mate i wasnt trying to pick an argument with you. i was just pointing out what you can get a japanese stroker kit for since you asked.

[Beer Baron]

here is some pics of HKS step 3 pistons. they are the 22mm pin size. I ordered these for someone here in sydney. I was blown away with how good they look:

they have coated crowns, and a different coating on the skirts. they also are nice and meaty in the skirt area to avoid cracking (like some brands i wont mention). They also have the properly size cutouts so they dont bash your oil squirters off the block.

here's a pic of the rings. you can see the difference bettween the titanium coated top ring, and the regular uncoated 2nd ring.

they are a serious piece of gear, there is no doubting that.

[Beer Baron]

mmm i get all warm just looking at them. they are a sexual looking piston.

[Turbz_13]

i was chasing the n1 crank so that the n1 oil pump would fit...if the stock r33 gtr crank will work then it will b fine for what i want. i just want to replace the r32 one as i have been told that the arnt as good as the 1's in the newer rb26's.

im still undecided on what im going to do. at the moment im just slowly gettin parts together for the rebuild

Edited May 19, 2006 by Turbz_13