Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys,

was wondering-how bad would it be to have the line parked in the drive in for say 3 hrs?i mean, aside from the exhaust, do your lines eat a lotta fuel idling there??

i used to take my old shit box over but with the line, i am not sure...

what?

unless your battery is completely shit the bed. you will not need to leave your car idling through a movie... maybe give it a quick crank half way through....

if your really that scared, Supercheap auto sell jump starters for like $40.... cheap cheap.

guys,

was wondering-how bad would it be to have the line parked in the drive in for say 3 hrs?i mean, aside from the exhaust, do your lines eat a lotta fuel idling there??

i used to take my old shit box over but with the line, i am not sure...

I dont know what to say.........

lol @ allblitz

you want to idle it for 3 hours and you're just worried about the fuel?

We start up the car a few times during a movie, purely to heat up the cabin, but its not on for long. The radio really doesn't use much of the battery.. so unless you want to put on 50,000 neon lights and the rest of your accessories you really don't need to run the car the whole time.

I think its time to ban people for being daft.

lol

Drive in movies = sit in car and watch movie on screen = soundtrack broadcast on radio = need radio to watch movie.

you don't need to idle unless you have 11ty billion jiggawatts of subs to power. Just crank and idle for about 5 mins in the middle of the moovie and you should be OK. That's providing you have a good battery. If not, take a portable radio and some batteries :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...