Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys well with the addition of a new member to my family (my R32 GTR) Im after a few basic parts for it.

Firstly im after a turbo timer that does all the usual stuff and removes the 180k limiter too. Im not after something really extravagent like some of them are, just a fairly basic one that will keep the engine going, remove the limiter and thats about it I spose.

Ive seen the HKS type 1 turbo timer on Perfectrun.com.au for only $250, but do they remove the 180 limiter?? Any suggestions?

Im also after a fairly basic alarm/immobiliser for it too. Since I live in a really small country town, car thefts are VERY scarce, but Id rather have one when I leave it parked somewhere.

Any suggestions on this and prices?? Im after one preferably under $500.

My car still runs fairly rich. Even at idle at it sounds like theres a few tiny misfires and a bit of black stuff comes out when I rev it. It is also really rich up top.

I want to get it tuned one day, and I was thinking of a power fc + injectors + pump. But what about just remapping my ECU in the mean time? Will this make a fair difference with the richness?

And I also think my oil pressure gauge sender is dead, any suggestions where to get a new one and what type?

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11876-a-few-more-questions-about-my-gtr/
Share on other sites

Head on down this way mate. Stay with us again :D That way you can book into Tilbrooks & get Martin to retune your stock ECU ($400-500 max I think?).

You sure will notice an improvement in A/FR's. You'll gain power, improve the A/FR & he'll also be able to remove the 180km/h limiter. All via the stock R32 ECU! Martin/Tilbrook's do quite a few stock ECU retunes. They'll be able to fix the oil press' indication prob too.

Give me a ring in the arvo (6-7ish) if you like.

if you're gonna get the ecu chipped, then i guess you may as well get a basic turbo timer. if your planning to get a power-fc, that too will remove the 180 limiter.

as for oil sender prob, i had that too.... just got an autometer electronic one.

remapping your ecu/tuning power-fc with the current setup will make a big difference (power, economy, etc).... trust me :)

as for alarms.... sorry cant help ya there... mine was already installed upon purchase so i had no say....

Why do you need a turbo timer? What's wrong with slowing up and coming off boost for a few minutes before arriving at where you're going?

And the turbo timer is totally unrelated to the 180 speed limiter.

As for an alarm, I got a Black Widow from Strathfield - I think it was around $150, but that might have been because it was an upgrade (previous one pooped itself after the car was off the road for 3 months). It does most things - auto immobilise, 4-point entry protection, battery-backup alarm, keyless entry.

Thanks guys.

Blind elk: the reason I want a turbo timer is the same reason nearly every other skyline owner does. Even if i do drive casually around, I still would like it to cool down a bit more than I can have time for. I just like to baby it a bit, as I just love the car.

Ula32: how much of a difference will I get with the ECU remapped? I already have 240rwkw, with stock intercooler, fuel etc. Will my injectors hold up to more power ok? It seems the injectors might have a bit more in them, as its running VERY rich at 240rwkw, so maybe 260 - 270rwkw?

my turbo timer works even when i havent turned the key over to start the car

ill just be sittin there listenin to music, look at the turbo timer and woohooo i have 30 secs till it blows up (not really, it just soudns like a bomb ticking down)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...