Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

KYOSHO have released their new "Gorgeous Collection" 1:18 scale (about 25cm) DieCast (metal)range.

I got myself an R32 GTR & a Datsun 240k 2 door GTR today. The detail is absolutley awesome!!

Excellent paint finish (grey or white for the 32 & red or white for the 240k) the doors bonnet & boot open to show FULL detail...

-complete engine with everything the right colour, a/c, front mount, all rubber hoses, warning stickers, bonnet mat, even writing on the fuse panel cover & hose clamps on the radiator hoses

-suspension, rubber tyres, drilled discs 'nissan' written on calipers, steering wheel turns when the wheels turn

brake lines, exhaust, hicas etc

-fabric on the seats & doortrims (padded vinyl in 240k), carpet, soft fabric seatbelts with metal buckles, all the guages have needles/numbers, stereo, interior light, even the boot mat comes out to show space saver spare!

So if you're into models these are absolutley excellent,

got them from Sheriff's Mini Cars on Church St Parramatta (Sydney) they have a 20% off sale on today & tomorrow 21st &22nd May

for only $88.00 or $110.00 each after the sale

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118824-kyosho-diecast-model/
Share on other sites

Has anyone bought a Kyosho model before? Whats their quality like?

I have an Autoart R34 GTR and have found an Autoart R32 and was just wondering if one was any better than the other.

The Autoart R32 is currently out of stock so if Kyosho is a good brand i will just get it.

Cheers

AutoArt is about the best of the mass-produced models that I have come across.

I didn't know that AutoArt did an R32, I might have a look at getting one. I have a bunch of model cars of all different brands - Hot Wheels Die Cast, autoart, bburago, maisto etc.

Does anyone know of an R33 GTR die cast model? I don't care what it costs, I want one.

  • 3 weeks later...

Kyosho and Autoart are both top quality Diecast car Manufacturers.

One is not better than the other.....

It really depends on the specific model they do, for Example the new Kyosho R32 GTR sh*ts on the Autoart equivilent, yet on another car the Autoart one may be a better replica.

Minichamps also make some quality 1/18 models

Heres a few of mine:

Autoart Porsche GT3R and Minichamps Sierra

mod13.jpg

Revell Opel Manta, Autoart Audi Quattro and Autoart Torana SLR5000

mod14.jpg

Autoart R32 GTR

mod2.jpg

Kyosho 240z, Revell 350z and Kyosho 2000 GT-R

mod3.jpg

Autoart R34 GTR

Mod1.jpg

BTW, I have found at $129 IKEA make the best Value for money Display Cabinets, they are about 6ft tall, all glass, and have 4 display levels (3 x 1/18 cars per), they also come with a light :)

i do, i forget wat size it is, its bout 10cm long. my ex got it for me off ebay. bleck r33 gtr

I have seen the ones on EBay, they are too small, from memory, 1:43 scale. Like the grey one a couple of posts above.

I want one in 1:18 (preferably), or even 1:24 scale.

Got me a red Kyosho R32 GTR as well for $99, same colour as my car.

Love the detail. I actually pulled out the space saver spare and it's just like the real one.

It lives with my 1:18 1991 bathurst winner GTR.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...