Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dammit I have the same problem!

Just happened tonight and got my exedy clutch fitted just over a month ago now.

Squeaks when depress clutch when driving to change gear - neatural and depress clutch - no noise.

Hopefully this thread can help me!

mad082 - thanks for the photo!

:)

mine was doing that too. neutral and in gear. caouildnt really hear it when driving though, only when stopped really, somewhere quiet.

I got it greased up when i had the car on the hoist yesterday, the squeak is gone, BUT....now i have this click click sound when i push the clutch in.

it makes 2 clicks as the clutch is pressed.

any ideas what that is?

thanks for taking the time.

its clicking from under the car. can only hear it with window open in a quiet place, like inside my garage.

added: i called my mechanic after we greased the fork to stop the squeak, and told him about the click. he said not to worry about it, it will go away, it's just clicking against the groove that's been made thru all the squeaking. i'm not so sure about that though.

Edited by Munkyb0y

it could be the slave cylinder clicking in a grove it has made. you really need to be under the car and have someone push the clutch in. it could also be the slave cylinder bolts are a bit lose, or it could be the spring on the clutch fork (where it goes onto the throwout bearing) isn't in the right spot.

wouldnt you know it. the click went away. my mechanic was right.

took it there today to get it up on the hoist, and just before we did, listened for the click...tada !!! gone.

thanks for ur help mad082.

  • 3 months later...

in case anyone else has this prob.

when i did a search i found alot saying it was the slave cylinder, needs to be chganged.

my clutch developed a really loud, annoying squeak. i mean embarrassingly loud.

so whenever i released the clutch, it would squea-ea-ea-ea-eakkk like an old lady's trolley.

wasnt like the previous squeaky rattle noise, which turned out to be the fork rubbing on the plate.

anyways, it was the fork again, but this time it was where it pivots on the rod inside. it was pretty dry and dusty at that pivot point, so i greased it up, and the noise is gone.

yeah,

mad082 explained it on the previous page.

have a look at this pic.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=39884

undo the slave cylinders (2 bolts) and remove it.

then pull the rubber boot off, and get a torch, you'll be able to see in where that fork runs.

you'll see another rod inside running at 90 degrees thru the fork.

at that point where they pivot is where i greased mine. i used thick grease.

you'll probably need a hoist, or at least some decent clearance to get right under there.

Just thought id remind you guys its extrememly bad to apply wet grease to anything inside the bellhousing as it can and will find its way onto your prssure plate/drive plate/flywheel eventually. Better to use a dry lubricant like graphite powder.

  • 1 month later...

I CONFIRIM;

The bit that was squeeking in my car was the actual metal pin that goes through the clutch bracket. I sprayed it with WD40 and it is all cool now.

You have to physically lay down on the floor of the car and so u can see the whole clutch bracket. The spray the clutch metal pin..its fairly large u cant miss it. Make sure u have a torch aswell and the red straw bit to direct the spray into the gap of the pin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...