Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

am wondering atm to change the front bar i have on my car atm (BN on most 32's) and go for a full GTR kit for the GTs-T i.e. Gtr front bar, gtr skirts, gtr pods(not sure on these), gtr bonnet and grill, and a gtr rear spoiler. Anyone have any ideas on how much this will cost? And how hard to source this stuff? Also would like the small inserts as in the picture below/attached. Any opinions appreciated aswell on whether to keep going with the BN or go for the GTR kit.

Cheers.

post-29200-1148287727.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118960-gtr-kit-for-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Whats a BN?

Off the top of my head some approx prices:

GTR copy front bar: $450

GTR side skirts - keep the gtst ones, theyre better, if you dont have them, budget another $500

GTR read pods - keep the gtst ones or as above fork out another $300

GTR rear spoiler $200 Maybe cheaper, noone wants rear spoilers anymore.

GTR bonnet - $700 plus latches

GTR grill $200

In my opinion if you have the stock side skirts and read pods, just remove the rear spoiler and get a gtr front bar, dont worry about the rest.

------------------------------------

http://www.nismo.com.au

- R32 GTR STYLE FRONT BAR FOR R32 GTS-T

- INCLUDES SPEED HOLES FOR R32 GTS-T

- MADE FROM GEL COAT FIBREGLASS - READY FOR PRE-FIT THEN

- PRIMING AND PAINTING.

- N1 STYLE BAR SLOTS ALSO AVAILABLE

FRONT BAR PRICE: $550.00

BAR SLOTS PRICE: $150.00

---------------------------------------

http://www.justjap.com

- has a GTR frontbar

http://www.carmate.com

- has whole GTR kit

Edited by Rekin

Who cares if its a fake gtr, its got more than 1 reason for it.

1. Bonnet - i bought mine for $400 in perfect nick. it came with new latch mech. It weighs less than 10kg so a weight saving for the gtst.

2. grille - well about $150 second hand

3. front 1/4 panels - also made of aluminium so another weight saving there.

4. gtr indicators are required

5. rear wing - dime a dozen on the forum sale section.

6. u WILL need gtr side skirts as they are completely different.

7. rear pods are the same.

8. he never said he wants to badge it a gtr, so dont judge anyone.

The 32 gtr has the best factory body kit imo. Im currently putting together the stuff to put the front end on myself. I dont pretend my car is a gtr, nor do i bag anyone for what they want their car to look like.

At the end of the day its his car, and he can have it look the way he wants. Dont flame the guy, help him. Its what these forums are for, but most people forget....

  • 2 months later...

GTR bar wont fit. need to get fibreglass GTR bar to suit GTST, i just bought one from JS Auto Imports. Excellent quality and fit. Also does N1 vents and lip, grills etc. Give him a ring. 0405 153 290. his name is Josh.

Hi all,

am wondering atm to change the front bar i have on my car atm (BN on most 32's) and go for a full GTR kit for the GTs-T i.e. Gtr front bar, gtr skirts, gtr pods(not sure on these), gtr bonnet and grill, and a gtr rear spoiler. Anyone have any ideas on how much this will cost? And how hard to source this stuff? Also would like the small inserts as in the picture below/attached. Any opinions appreciated aswell on whether to keep going with the BN or go for the GTR kit.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...