Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have the following mods:

fmic, turbosmart dual stage boost controller, apexi s-afc 2, k and n pod filter.

before i got the safc2 installed i tried boosting it too 12-13 psi and i was getting this hiccup in the engine when i put my foot to the floor, and i thought it would have to be the a/f ratios, so i decided to get the safc 2 as the power fc was way out of my budget, for $900 i got the safc 2, had it installed and dynoed.

as it was being dynoed on high boost of just under 13 psi it was doing that hiccup thing again, and eventually the guy must have tuned them out cos it wasnt doing it anymore. so i was happy. took the car home and for a few days it was fine, but then it started doing the hiccup thing again, not as often as before but still there and very embarassing when wanting to drag sumone, the whole car would shudder for a second or 2, and keep going, it would literally jerk.

does anyone have any idea what this could be and how to fix it???

sumone said that the boost level was too high and was blowing out the spark in the plugs, so i bought new ones, ngk platinums and regapped them to 0.8 mm, but no improvement, the only way to avoid it is by using a maximum of 75% throttle.

any help would be appreciated...:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/
Share on other sites

thanx for the replies.

the safc 2 takes care of the boost cut, could be fuel pump,

i did turn my boost down a bit, but no help, if i turn it down anymore there wont be any point boosting it

i think the best bet is to get it redynoed but i thought there might be a simpler solution

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-211025
Share on other sites

if this hiccup is around 5000rpm, then it is most likely the same spark problem that all the R33 owners get after boosting their cars.

Have a search in here for "misfire" or "5000rpm" and you'll see other peoples replies.

I think they were saying to gat the plugs to 0.7 (I think)

good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-211380
Share on other sites

Change your fuel filter, you should do this regularly anyhow.

The fuel pump issue, will play out like this;

* try getting up to 5000rpm in 1st using light throttle, then at 5000rpm cruise put your foot flat to the floor. If the same issue occurs straight away it's probably not your fuel pump. If it allows you to gun it through first and then starts doing its thing in 2nd or 3rd then the fuel pump might be at fault.

The spark plugs maybe too hot for the load. Try a range or two colder. Buy cheap copper ones.

Check your base timing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-212547
Share on other sites

ive just changed the fuel filter so its not that, it was doing it before and after the change.

i dont think it happens in 1st at all, but in 2nd and 3rd it does only when i put my foot to the floor on high boost.

i think the heat range for my plugs are a 6, could b 7, cant remember

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-212559
Share on other sites

My car is doing the exact same thing, I got new spark plugs put in today gapped .8mm. Its been on the dyno yesturday and today and turning the boost down from 1bar isn't helping. I have a standard ECU which will be replaced by a powerFC as soon as I get around to ordering one.

Yesturday I only managed 175.1hp on the dyno.

Tommorow I might have another go.

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-212906
Share on other sites

If it happens when you hit 2nd or 3rd from a standing start test and doesn't act up at all through 1st gear then the fuel pump is perhaps at fault.

When I say standing start or rolling start run at 5000rpm I mean going from 1st through all the gears to 4th as if racing. You might only get to 2nd when it occurs. If it occurs in the later gears and not the 1st fueling is the issue.

It could be ecu 'fuel cut' also.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-214337
Share on other sites

i was told the safc 2 removed fuel cut?

becos i had a fuel cut defender in there before i got the safc 2 and when i got the safc 2 installed he said i dont need the fuel cut defender anymor

i'll take the car for a thrash and see if it does it in 1st or not...

i was actually driving it pretty hard yesterday on high boost and it didnt do it once, seems to do it when ever it feels like it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11897-boost-problem/#findComment-214401
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...