Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The other day i cleaned my AFM with contact cleaner and it has made my fuel consumption increase. before i cleaned it i was getting 420km outta a tank, now its down to 330km (same drivin style). I have a rb20det, stock ecu, not cat, fmic, r43 turbo and 7psi boost.

Can i lean out the mixture using the stock ecu?

What are some ways of decreasing fuel economy? (dont say lift up the right foot coz i drive like a granny mostly)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118977-decresing-fuel-comsumption/
Share on other sites

ecu remap or piggyback computer

remap or apexi safc

you need to bend the afm signal to make the ecu think more air is coming into the system than actually is, so it leans it out based around the "apparent" amount of air thats coming report (reported by the afm bender)

I was getting 500+kms to a tank before a chip, its now 550kms+ to a tank out of my rb20 cefiro on 12psi on an rb20 turbo.

I think you have another issue that needs to be addressed to sort out your fuel economy. I cant see how a piggy back or chip can solve the problem straight off. So you sort whatever it is out first, then go from there.

dont you dare use a resistor. get it tuned properly. youll certainly put the engine at great risk by using a stuid method such as an inline resistor.

either

1) get an safc and get it tuned

2) get a remapped ecu and get it tuned

3) get an aftermarket ecu and get it tuned

you should also make sure your onboard oxygen sensor is working and has been replaced recently (they last around 50,000k's)

you say that you don't have a cat running in between the exhaust system..

I recommend you put it back in.. firstly you won't get a fine and it should give you better fuel economy

How the f**k does a cat give you better fuel economy???

Dude just take it to a mechanic that knows what he's doing. Get him to check the base timing is correct and that the 02 sensor is trimming, check fuel flow and pressure(just for safety), have the injectors cleaned and then get a chip if it is still shite.

The problem with getting buildup on your MAF is that it desensitises the hot wire element therefore it reads that there is less air coming in and leans the engine out. Once you cleaned it it went back to being typically nissan programming rich.

SAFC wont help with fuel economy. If you lean it out on low loads and RPM, it doesnt take long for the ECU to learn around it and attempt to maintain your AFRs at 14.7.

Its easily demonstratable if you have a wideband as I was doing my own testing with an SAFC a while ago.

I would replace your O2 sensor and then do an ECU reset. What did you clean your AFM with? Please don't say WD40!

I cleaned the afm with contact cleaner.

should i replace the O2 sensor thats on the exhaust?

HAving no cat doesnt improve fuel economy it just there to pass emissions.

Can the stock ecu be 'tweaked' to improve the mapping?

What he said.

Try and reset you're ecu first. Factory programming will be rich but it's possible that a reset may help things. Apparently after a reset, as the ecu re-learns it makes larger adjustments at first, then only slight changes after that. Dissconnect you're battery, step on the brake pedal a few times then reconnect the battery or leave it off for longer. Should do the trick. It can't hurt and it's free.

How the f**k does a cat give you better fuel economy???

Dude just take it to a mechanic that knows what he's doing. Get him to check the base timing is correct and that the 02 sensor is trimming, check fuel flow and pressure(just for safety), have the injectors cleaned and then get a chip if it is still shite.

The problem with getting buildup on your MAF is that it desensitises the hot wire element therefore it reads that there is less air coming in and leans the engine out. Once you cleaned it it went back to being typically nissan programming rich.

  • 2 weeks later...
you need to bend the afm signal to make the ecu think more air is coming into the system than actually is, so it leans it out based around the "apparent" amount of air thats coming report (reported by the afm bender)

Surely this would be the other way round? For better economy, you'd want the ECU thinking it's getting less air, so it squirts less fuel into the mix? More air would call for more fuel normally, right?

I would have guessed that if you clean the crap off the wire in the AFM, the wire is more exposed to the actual air coming in, which would cool the wire down and tell the ECU to squirt more fuel. (as the ECU measures the voltage of the wire based on the heat the wire retains from the voltage being applied to it)

If the wire is protected by gunk, it would stay warmer and not see so much air, and the ECU will give it less fuel to mix with?

Correct me where i'm wrong, but i've cleaned everything on my car, and I get BAD economy... I was really hoping a SAFC would help fix this.

Give it a general tune up first.

New plugs, new O2 sensor, check timing, clean injectors, fit a new air filter element into the airbox. (piss of pod filter if you have one).

Check that the water temp sensor is reading/working correctly as this is used for cold start enrichment.

And see how you go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...