Jump to content
SAU Community

How many Stagea owners does it take...  

306 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hello All,

I am happy to join the rest of you Stagea owners, just picked up my 2002 AXIS Stagea and it is one nice machine and goes quite well. Already had a guy at the shops ask what car is it and the guy at the RTA said it was a weird looking Volvo... mind you hee called it a " Stag---eeeea" .

I look forward to your forums.

Jules

Edited by Paramour
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 292
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey Everyone,

I have recently picked up my 1997 Stagea Dayz Edition. Series 1 in Red. No mods currently, but lots and lots planned. Have attached a few pics.

Also, mine didn't come with an instruction manual to the car. Not that I really need it, but was curious if they were available?

Cheers,

Mark

post-45665-1198922611_thumb.jpg

post-45665-1198922621_thumb.jpg

post-45665-1198922629_thumb.jpg

post-45665-1198922689_thumb.jpg

post-45665-1198922698_thumb.jpg

1998 Series I

- Full Autech 260RS bodykit

- R34 GTR wheels

- Greddy E-Manger computer

- Full aftermarket exhaust

- Blitz electronic boost controller

- HKS airpod

- GTR front mount intercooler

- Slotter brake roters

- Full white pearl respray

post-24755-1199539023_thumb.jpg

post-24755-1199539041_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

I hope i am welcome in this treat, living in Denmark, no wote from me. :)

Stagea 1997.

Km: 69.000

Mods:

Full R34 GTR Front face conversion

R34 GTR Alloy 18"

Tire: Toyo Progress TR1 235 and 265.

Aftermarket Sideskirts

Aftermarket Rear Bumper

Carbon Chin Spoiler

Carbon Bonnet

Carbon Rear Spoiler

Carbon Window Sill Panels

Carbon Covered Wing Mirrors

Aftermarket Twin Exit Exhaust

Full Cream Leather

Chrome Rings

Momo Racing Sterring Wheel

New parts.

New RB25DET Engine.

Aftermarked RB25 Intake.

Aftermarked RB25 T3 Manifold.

Aftermarked T3 turbo.

Aftermarked 50 mm external wastegate.

Aftermarked 3" downpipe.

New 3" Exhaust.

New 550 ccm injectors.

HKS Adjustable Suspenssion.

Skyline R33 GTR Brakes.

Goal, and Drift and 12 Sec Quartermiles car, with 500-550 hp.

post-46420-1200400058_thumb.jpg

post-46420-1200400101_thumb.jpg

post-46420-1200400167_thumb.jpg

post-46420-1200400189_thumb.jpg

post-46420-1200400323_thumb.jpg

post-46420-1200400619_thumb.jpg

better update

DCAM0010.jpg

Dayz special edition series 1 Stagea RS V Four, 96000kms, automatic, RB25DET engine, Attessa 4wd 1997 model silky snow pearl, lives in southern Adelaide

Clarion stereo tape unit with 6-stack cd player

Clarion amp

Clarion 10inch subwoofer

Pioneer 260w 4-way front door speakers

Eclipse 80w 2-way rear door speakers

Black Widow 10000 car alarm

New Oxygen sensor

New 400amp battery

New fuel filter

New oil filter, fresh Motul 10/40w Turbolite engine oil

Fresh fluid throughout, 100,000km service done (new water pump, belts, all fluids, exhaust studs etc)

Davies Craig automatic transmission oil cooler upgrade kit

MV Automatic shift kit & service kit

Koyo Radiator upgrade

Whiteline front and rear adjustable swaybars

Dayz adjustable engine swaybar

Whiteline front castor kit

Whiteline rear subframe alignment kit

Maltech stainless steel braided brake lines, front and rear

DBA slotted front brake discs

Benidx Advance front and Heavy Duty rear brake pads

R34 GTT 17inch rims with Hankook K104 Vetus tyres, 235/45/17

Bilstein front and rear suspension shocks, with ‘lowering’ circlips, using standard springs

Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts

Volt stabiliser kit

GFB Stealth-Fx adjustable BOV (atmo/plumbak)

Aerospeed adjustable exhaust cam gear pulley wheel

Greddy remote oil filter relocation kit

Sump plug drain valve

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Nissan Z32 Air Flow Meter

3inch JustJap stainless steel single dump pipe system

3inch Catco high flow catalytic converter

3inch cat-back exhaust system with GTR Kakimoto racing free flow muffler

K&N pod filter

Cold Air Induction aluminium box w/ lid setup, using standard snorkel air feed

Hybrid dual stage Electronic Boost Controller, set to 1bar

Apexi 'hybrid' front mount intercooler with custom return air feed pipe kit using stock holes

Apexi boost gauge

Apexi SAFC Super Air Fuel Computer

Apexi SITC Super Ignition Timing Computer

Sliding Performance water/oil cooled bush bearing HiFlow Turbocharger

Soon to be fitted

HKS heavy duty turbo actuator

550cc Injectors

Splitfire coil packs

new 0.8mm copper sparkies, oil & filters

Apexi Pfc Boost Control Kit

Apexi R34 GTT Power-FC

  • 3 weeks later...

Just in... 2000 S2 Pearl White in Adelaide... this is the (filthy) beast as it rolled off the delivery truck this afternoon:

post-32445-1202830577_thumb.jpg

It's a Prime Edition and this pretty much sums up why I like Primes:

post-32445-1202386405_thumb.jpg

5 years looking 3 months waiting... finally here!

Cheers guys I have spent countless hours being entertained by your posts & reading useful information. I don't think there's a better Stagea resource on the Internet (in English anyway!)

Regards,

DaveB

Edited by DaveB
Just in... 2000 S2 Pearl White in Adelaide... this is the (filthy) beast as it rolled off the delivery truck this afternoon:

It's a Prime Edition and this pretty much sums up why I like Primes:

post-32445-1202386405_thumb.jpg

5 years looking 3 months waiting... finally here!

Cheers guys I have spent countless hours being entertained by your posts & reading useful information. I don't think there's a better Stagea resource on the Internet (in English anyway!)

Regards,

DaveB

Awesome car...congrats.

hey. mark here.

adelaide

just recently bought a black s2 90k on the clock. stocky. leather, twin sunroofs. all the goodies.

gets in aus in 2 weeks.

got waiting.

19in gold racing harts.

tein coil covers

ill post pics once here and wheels are on.

someone please link me to pics of performace parts. kits, eyelid covers. wings etc...

thanks.

mark.

Edited by MARKRX3
Isn't the point of the AR-X that it has raised suspension for increased ground clearance?

and you pointless being!!!

Quote from Brazin

Theres a few reasons weighing up in my mind as to why the AR-X might be a good option for modifying / lowering etc over the normal ones:

- Larger rolling diametre... they not only got 18" stock instead of 17", but larger tyres etc increasing the overall rolling diametre... which if you want to dump one and get fat rims... means you can "legally" get wider and bigger rims fitted to an AR-X than the other M35s. (225/55R18 vs 215/55R17)

- The plastic gaurds around the wheel arch can be retained and colour-coded when mixing a bodykit in so also keeping a 'legal' wider car (an extra 15mm each side for wider rims) without having to get wider quarter panels or flares.

- While leather etc was an option on Rs-4... they standard fitment on an AR-X

- 200w Bose speaker system including subwoofer in the spare wheel well etc is also more common to find in AR-X

- Limited Slip Diff standard on AR-X - rare option on non-AR-X

Has something been missed?

and you pointless being!!!

Quote from Brazin

Theres a few reasons weighing up in my mind as to why the AR-X might be a good option for modifying / lowering etc over the normal ones:

- Larger rolling diametre... they not only got 18" stock instead of 17", but larger tyres etc increasing the overall rolling diametre... which if you want to dump one and get fat rims... means you can "legally" get wider and bigger rims fitted to an AR-X than the other M35s. (225/55R18 vs 215/55R17)

- The plastic gaurds around the wheel arch can be retained and colour-coded when mixing a bodykit in so also keeping a 'legal' wider car (an extra 15mm each side for wider rims) without having to get wider quarter panels or flares.

- While leather etc was an option on Rs-4... they standard fitment on an AR-X

- 200w Bose speaker system including subwoofer in the spare wheel well etc is also more common to find in AR-X

- Limited Slip Diff standard on AR-X - rare option on non-AR-X

Has something been missed?

That is a whole bunch of very true facts.... but get them colour coded quick - they look like a holden adventra. Good to see some out the box thinking! Will be nice when its done. Factory wide body. There are some nice agressive looking front bars if you just google image m35 stagea.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...