Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

who here wants to plan an attack on a nazi mod :D

lol

I mostly feel for you....but thats a plan that will leave you on the wrong side of happy...you're only relatively new on here....i'd take it on the chin and not try to rev to many ppl up over it. State facts and let ppl make up their own mind.

I mostly feel for you....but thats a plan that will leave you on the wrong side of happy...you're only relatively new on here....i'd take it on the chin and not try to rev to many ppl up over it. State facts and let ppl make up their own mind.

Um.... Advice is cheap and thats great advice...

nah not yet shane still have a couple more tricks to get for it but it is comming along.

madness troy...i take it one of them tricks is still on the production line in the garrett factory? :D

Whats doing Isaac???

Hows that dump pipe???

hey col, yeah not much mate just doing my timesheets as they're due tomorrow.

And the dump pipe is sitting in my garage, i decided not to fit it as i already have a one piece dump/front pipe and dont think its going to be that much of a improvement to stuff around changing it over, so it'll be up for sale with some other random crap i've got in my garage in the next few weeks :D

yourself?

No Nazi mods... Just breaking forum rules.

Cross posting is not a cool thing; create one thread and place a link to that thread in your sig. Then post whore. >_<

No one else is allowed to do it so why should Mr-Toy33.

When the thread was created in SA it was reported by another SA member due to this.

One rule for all otherwise others will complain. :)

No Nazi mods... Just breaking forum rules.

Cross posting is not a cool thing; create one thread and place a link to that thread in your sig. Then post whore. >_<

No one else is allowed to do it so why should Mr-Toy33.

When the thread was created in SA it was reported by another SA member due to this.

One rule for all otherwise others will complain. :)

Yeah its all good man...

Most of the users and respected members of SAU Qld understand the situation and dont blame us...

For those who have an issue with the entire matter by all means PM me personally Im more than happy to take your anger and heated comments...

John is the master of his own destinity, im hoping he chooses the smart path...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...