Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that turbo's not big enough lol

well ladies, i now wont be ready anytime this year :D shrek's just left and there's bad news, the crank's farked (not really a biggie) and the pistons are stockers. so saying that, and knowing i have the spare ported head there, i'm not gonna put the std head back on with forged rods & pistons, i'm gonna wait and do it properly. big cams, springs, valves, finish the port job, and forged rods & pistons.

i hate ground up builds :rolleyes:

f**k shane..........do something and get the ball moving. Your just going to pro long the whole thing a million years into the future.

Tip for ya mate.

Aim for a power figure that you can achieve more easily. Do what you need and get it done, less waiting around. Car gets back on the road and you can start having fun.

well the way i see it michael.

I've gotta get atleast pistons, there ~1200, then machine work, ~1k, then may aswell get rods aswell 890, then whats the point in putting the shitty stock head on with that fully built bottom end (have got all studs, bearings, acl headgasket now) when i have the ported blank head there that will be going on at a later date.

the budget i set aside to get the thing running by december didnt include new pistons or the likes, so this year is now certainly outta the picture. im over it, anyone got a light? sigh

What type of Falkens did you get.

unsure.. check tomorrow morning i will..

sleeping & workon on the car

should be a good 2 weeks :yes:

sponsor :D

stop trying to be all tuff marki, caus everyone know's im the tuffest carnt here :)

dude im dead serious.. i have a sponsor. lol.. dont believe me if u want.. i dnt care.. in the end i get cheap tyres.. semis and slicks if i want.. and all the potenzas i can burn for cheap. where as u pay retail :O

u see, the thing is, most of us dont hit shit, hence y no1 is replying to ur thread

its either that or everyone thinks ur a gaylord :sorcerer:

believe it or not.. ur gay.. and that is actually the first time ive EVER hit something in th car.. and im glad it was when i was sideways and it was only a kiss :laughing-smiley-014:

Look its me hahaha

em.jpg

riviting..!

what semis u want give me measurements and ill shoot a sms and get back to u in a day.. i knw they got some smick aqua semis.. forget brand. and soo many potenzas.. mmm thats where we got our RE-01Rs from.. yeah goodluck trying to get them in australia :D

235/40ZR18

265/35ZR18

285/30ZR18

In a Yokohama Advan A048.

Looking at more so the last 2 size's. However I may not get a 265 on the front with the current offset. I would really like the same profile all around, but it appears they dont make a 265/30

235/40ZR18

265/35ZR18

285/30ZR18

In a Yokohama Advan A048.

Looking at more so the last 2 size's. However I may not get a 265 on the front with the current offset. I would really like the same profile all around, but it appears they dont make a 265/30

haha.. u serious.. i want 18 semis.. ill ask tomorrow.. remind me.. ill ask what he has in R18 265 and larger. he specialises in euros.. so he'll love to wrap ur porsheie wheelios

haha.. u serious.. i want 18 semis.. ill ask tomorrow.. remind me.. ill ask what he has in R18 265 and larger. he specialises in euros.. so he'll love to wrap ur porsheie wheelios

get me a price on the 255/40/R17's as well. But im more interest in the 18's as I want bigger tire then a pussy 255 rear, so 18's it is.

I'm not happy with the current 275 road yoko's, I can't throw the Porsche around hard enough enough. Typical Porsche, motor too far back, go in hot and feel the back come around and then play catch the tail. Just need something grippy and sticky as a mofo most of the Porsche guys seem to be using Advan A048's, guess it seems to be doing teh trick.

I dont care about price as I'm not rushing out to buy a set next week as these tires are new at the moment, that and dad will buy them

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...