Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm well.. a little bit tired from getting up sooooooooooooooo early lol. but not too bad

trying to find myself a new radiator for under $500 lol.

would a gtr radiator suffice???

ahh i see.

ohwell, goodluck in ur hunting ;)

I'm askig bunta what to do. he always knows best

mine exploded lol.. like massive bang and shit.. coolant everywhere

i love the term exploded, I've told everyone

Liz!!!

Harrow liz!!

harrow sau!!

oh hi there!!!!

I'm askig bunta what to do. he always knows best

mine exploded lol.. like massive bang and shit.. coolant everywhere

i love the term exploded, I've told everyone

yeh he's pretty cluey for a retarded kid eh ;)

have u tried just jap or cooling pro?

i haven't tried it.. dave says no...... as his stock radiator cooled better than a just crap one. Also the top bit where the cap goes on is only pressed in rather than welded in, creating another weak point.

the pwr ones are 740, and i can't justify 740 on a radiator, especially when I've got so much other shit to fix asap.

so.. I'm thinking ... just jap, get the top bit welded and away i go.. that'll be $430... as you know what? I'm not running a 400kw gtr like dave.. and I'm sure the gtr radiators have much much better cooling qualities than the s13 ones lol.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...