Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the mod plate covers the 2 seater mod, roll cage, turbo, induction, suspension and pretty much everything else. Its registered as a 2 seater as well. The only dramas with it atm are the screamer pipe, ride height, exhaust volume and BOV... although its a quiet bov so you dont really notice it unless your really giving it a bootfull. I have a silencer that plugs into the back of the exhaust that apparently brings it down to a slightly less noticeable ~90db but i need to get a clamp of some sort to hold it in there. will sort that out over the next week. screamer pipe being plummed back in a fortnight or so, and getting it raised 15-20mm at the same time.

the mod plate covers the 2 seater mod, roll cage, turbo, induction, suspension and pretty much everything else. Its registered as a 2 seater as well. The only dramas with it atm are the screamer pipe, ride height, exhaust volume and BOV... although its a quiet bov so you dont really notice it unless your really giving it a bootfull. I have a silencer that plugs into the back of the exhaust that apparently brings it down to a slightly less noticeable ~90db but i need to get a clamp of some sort to hold it in there. will sort that out over the next week. screamer pipe being plummed back in a fortnight or so, and getting it raised 15-20mm at the same time.

Pretty keen on making it legal, aren't you.

Rasing the height IMHO will wreck the tough as stance it has. Looks shmicko in the pics, I'd leave it at the current height...

sick car, i like it alot, just not sure how they could roady it without steering wheel, but who really cares, aslong as u can drive it without being hassled then woohoo!

I got a RWC on my quick R32 which looked far worse then his car.

No trim, cage, no cat, open screamer, jap belts dodgy tires no mod plates.

Pretty keen on making it legal, aren't you.

Rasing the height IMHO will wreck the tough as stance it has. Looks shmicko in the pics, I'd leave it at the current height...

But it will make it handle properly. Going too low severely compromises the suspension geometry on Skylines.

Looks <<<<<<Performance

But it will make it handle properly. Going too low severely compromises the suspension geometry on Skylines.

Looks <<<<<<Performance

Completely agree, plus I know this dilemma all too well. However, I personally way up how much time a car is spent on the street and how much time it’s spent on the track and in most case’s it’s on the street more often… Thus looks win. Explains why the Porsche is 40mm and not 100mm+ :domokun:

But it will make it handle properly. Going too low severely compromises the suspension geometry on Skylines.

Looks <<<<<<Performance

Truer words were never spoken.

Most people work on 'lower centre of gravity = better handling' ....this is true in some cases but only to an extent. Once you go past a certain point, the geometry changes in a negative way.

front lip is currently 90mm off the ground.. which is probably fine for handling.. i doubt raising it to 105 (15mm / 1.5cm) will change either looks or performance much.. but it will keep the popo happy. im going to plum back the screamer pipe which will have no effect on performance whatsoever.. as far as quietening the exhaust.. I have a removable silencer with an inner width of 2".. apparently fitting that takes the noise down to around 90db.. loses a lot of power, but fine for putting around on the streets, and takes 20 seconds to install/remove.

front lip is currently 90mm off the ground.. which is probably fine for handling.. i doubt raising it to 105 (15mm / 1.5cm) will change either looks or performance much.. but it will keep the popo happy.

The tire to wheel arch gap will be an extra 1.5cm, and you'll be land cruiser spec :banana:

But with a past Lexus at 10mm and a 911 at 40mm, clearly I shouldn't be commenting on this matter as I'm a touch insane/stupid.

Get a datsun.

210 fly wheel hp i swear to god will bore me, an thats on a "built" L20 motor :laughing-smiley-014:

How angry is that. I ask my self why....

thats pretty ordinary

buy my R33 in 2 months

thats pretty ordinary

buy my R33 in 2 months

I really want a club car.. But your price is right for a daily driver which I would need if i bought a club car anyway. Just a matter of what comes first. The chicken or the egg.

I'll take teh 2 months to think it over :banana:

Josh, this is a GTR mate.... not a lame old Porka :D

Actually the 911 (997) Carrera S Cabriolet is the nicest of the P1 cars I have driven. The closest in all around competence to the GTR but a tad underpowered and not enough rear seat room.

Looking forward to seeing this beast Gervase. I'm only running 320rwkw @14psi atm but soon to get off my ass, install the fuel system and Autospeed EBC and shoot for over 400rwkw. I find it just doesn't respond enough.

Josh, this is a GTR mate.... not a lame old Porka :cool:

Actually the 911 (997) Carrera S Cabriolet is the nicest of the P1 cars I have driven. The closest in all around competence to the GTR but a tad underpowered and not enough rear seat room.

Looking forward to seeing this beast Gervase. I'm only running 320rwkw @14psi atm but soon to get off my ass, install the fuel system and Autospeed EBC and shoot for over 400rwkw. I find it just doesn't respond enough.

It’s not that old.. It’s a 1990, although the technology in it is still 30 years old lol. Water-cooled one's are the devil… Can you tell what part of the Porsche car club band camp I come from :D

They are more of a driver’s car IMHO, takes a whole lot more to control one, I find GTR’s boring, predictable, unexciting and an easier car to drive, plus I hate 4wd/awd… But I am narrow minded and don’t like all this technology, atleast I can admit it haha. Admittedly I’ve never driven a GTR like old mates one he just bought, but driving a 600rwhp S13 for a few years makes me a bit rwd bias I guess

There is no doubting that the GTR is the better, more advanced car (compared to early Porsches) and will win every time against "most" of the earlier 911’s. Although, we had a genuine RUF a little while ago, that would, could and still would (if it were still around) dust most mild GTR’s.

But that’s kinda comparing different leagues and not really relevant.

Yall own Nissan Pulsars ;) All this from me hating tire to wheel arch gap :spank:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...