Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this r34

and im not with you on that one bro - this thing is mint

Haha... because you've not done research on importing. Remember? I was in the market for a 34gtr before and I've looked at all options. I'm even quite familiar with the import process myself. A stock NUR would be around 80-90k mark. To make the NUR produce that kinda figure (400awkw) isnt hard at all. All you need is fuel, ecu, boost ($5k job?). Thats all. You might even get away with their stock turbos if they're the 34 N1s. Now even with turbos, considering -5, do you think it'll cost you another 50k to get your stock NUR to produce that power? All the mines shit is just branding imo. So what if its got all the ztune stuff? From memory, Kristian told me the ztune for sold for around 160k mark. And also, I saw a genuine mines on sale a few years ago for less than that price.

Actually I failed to notice 1 point. The reason why its priced higher is probably because the owner throw in the original NUR engine in the deal as well.. That could be worth an extra 15k?

Yea ztune are the most sought after but who in the right mind would buy it? I know I wouldnt if I have that kinda money. Cant justify that. But a NUR, yes. If the price is only gonna be around 80s.

ps: Unless you've got too much money to spurge. Maybe you should share the love and we can all own a 34 gtr. Hahaha

Haha... because you've not done research on importing. Remember? I was in the market for a 34gtr before and I've looked at all options. I'm even quite familiar with the import process myself. A stock NUR would be around 80-90k mark. To make the NUR produce that kinda figure (400awkw) isnt hard at all. All you need is fuel, ecu, boost ($5k job?). Thats all. You might even get away with their stock turbos if they're the 34 N1s. Now even with turbos, considering -5, do you think it'll cost you another 50k to get your stock NUR to produce that power? All the mines shit is just branding imo. So what if its got all the ztune stuff? From memory, Kristian told me the ztune for sold for around 160k mark. And also, I saw a genuine mines on sale a few years ago for less than that price.

In what world are you going to get 400awkw with 5k? The Z tune has a lot more to it than just throwing a load of branded parts in. They were all stripped back to a bare shell and everything was completely rebuilt. After it was all spot welded etc. The amount of labour in building a car like that is ridiculous.

ztune is the tits (if its real and not a fake)

the ztune is the most sort after GTR of them all, people would swap R35's for a 34 ztune...

Would anyone with a Z tune swap it for a 35 though? I doubt you would get a z tune for under 400k tbh.

Actually I failed to notice 1 point. The reason why its priced higher is probably because the owner throw in the original NUR engine in the deal as well.. That could be worth an extra 15k?

Yea ztune are the most sought after but who in the right mind would buy it? I know I wouldnt if I have that kinda money. Cant justify that. But a NUR, yes. If the price is only gonna be around 80s.

ps: Unless you've got too much money to spurge. Maybe you should share the love and we can all own a 34 gtr. Hahaha

I would buy a Z tune if I had the cash.

Haha... because you've not done research on importing. Remember? I was in the market for a 34gtr before and I've looked at all options. I'm even quite familiar with the import process myself. A stock NUR would be around 80-90k mark. To make the NUR produce that kinda figure (400awkw) isnt hard at all. All you need is fuel, ecu, boost ($5k job?). Thats all. You might even get away with their stock turbos if they're the 34 N1s. Now even with turbos, considering -5, do you think it'll cost you another 50k to get your stock NUR to produce that power? All the mines shit is just branding imo. So what if its got all the ztune stuff? From memory, Kristian told me the ztune for sold for around 160k mark. And also, I saw a genuine mines on sale a few years ago for less than that price.

havent done any research in importing as i have no want to import a car, i can just appreciate a rare car, therefore i see it worthwhile - however tuning advice coming from the person who said they can get 300awkw in their gtr with just a pfc...

35's are crap with there stupid auto wannabe manual

amen

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...