Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

Probably heard this before but the search tool is as useless as tits on a bull so i didn't bother.

I have this clicking noise behind the dash (S1 33) on start up.. sounds like a shaft popped out or something. Just wondering if anyone has come across this before and what they did to fix it! cos it sh!ts me to tears.

cheers

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119458-ac-problem/
Share on other sites

Very common R33 problem. There are several threads on it. It is your heater unit which requires removing the entire dash (EVERYTHING) to fix.

Someone has written an EXCELLENT guide on how to do this, but you need to allow for a minimum of 4 hours to pull it apart. I guess you need 4 hours to put it back together.

And before you ask, no... it will do no harm to leave it like that. Mine does it and the heater flap still works fine. It's a sensor that has no contact anymore. The flap moves and should press two contacts together to indicate the end of the movement, but the contacts are dirty or broken, so it keeps trying to push further until it times out and stops. So it still functions correctly.

Mine will do the noise if I switch to "feet". Test it out and see if you get it then as well as startup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119458-ac-problem/#findComment-2202023
Share on other sites

i dont think its a sensor, its the motor that opens and closes the flap (im not sure if thats what you meant randy).

i've got a pic of the gears inside the motor somewhere when i did it. one of the gears were completley chewed. i'll get a pic up tomorrow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119458-ac-problem/#findComment-2202726
Share on other sites

Security: Not sure, just what I have read. Although the gear would be chewed from the constant clicking as the gear keeps trying to turn. I'm sure there must be some way for it to know when to stop moving?

So anyway, I just guessed that there would be a dead contact in my heater unit that wasn't telling the gears/motor when to stop turning.

Seems people replace their entire heater unit when this happens? I haven't seen or heard of anyone actually fixing it themselves without replacing the whole unit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119458-ac-problem/#findComment-2205855
Share on other sites

The A/c in my car resets itself whenever yoiu turn the car off.... so it's always the same thing when you start up. or like was said earlier if you switch to feet. It is pretty annoying and i would llike it to go away!

As far as pulling the dash out.... that sucks. I'll have to get motivated and look for my self. (same old story, mechanics car is the last to get looked at!)

Cheers for the Info guys. now i know where to start looking!

-Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119458-ac-problem/#findComment-2207536
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I know i risk sounding like the biggest idiot for this, but does the heater work straight away on startup? Mine's made this clicking noise for ages, but when i finally needed the heater this morning it didn't blow heat until the engine warmed up, and i don't remember if it used to do that, it's been that long since i needed to use it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119458-ac-problem/#findComment-2245772
Share on other sites

OK what i wanna know is, to get rid of this clickin noise we replace the whole heater core or fix the sensors or the flaps??

Lol anyone in sydney wanna help me over a weekend!!

But leaving it like this, will it wreck anything over time??

Edited by siddr20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119458-ac-problem/#findComment-2245853
Share on other sites

yeah i had this same problem it is one of the biggest pain in the ass jobs for such a little part to be replaced the part you need is like a little actuator thing with an arm on it and i think its the cogs inside it get stripped over time

Baron25 - Your heaters should work once your car is warmed up not straight away.

Here is a picture of the part that needs to be replaced to get rid of the clicking noise. It is the bit with the green square around it the bit with the yellow circle around it is the heater setup with the heater core in it. I bought the part (just the bit that clicks not the whole heater) of a person on hear for like $60 and the problem was solved. You will need to pull all the pillars, dash, everything in the dash, Centre consoles, stearing wheel and possibley the front seats out. Theres a guide on hear somewhere on how to pull the dash out which was extremely useful. Good luck with the job if you need any help at all give me a pm.

cheers iLEC

post-26024-1150095795.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119458-ac-problem/#findComment-2248839
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...