Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now, before anyone says it's too big and I should get something smaller, I already have the 15" sub. I just need to make a new box for it, because the box that it currently sits in was for my old Commodore and is too big for the Skyline.

I am just wondering where I should mount the new box, and what direction it should face. Am I going to be able to build one big enough and still have it fit in the boot? I'm hoping to built it as square as possible so that I can experiment with sidewards/rearwards facing. With the Commodore box I only had one option, and that was for it to face forwards.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11947-single-15-sub-in-boot/
Share on other sites

JimX,

I think you will have trouble facing it any way except straight up. I have a 42L esky that is 15" high and my R32 bootlid won't close on it. R33 boots might be a bit higher but it would still be a tight fit. If you dont mind losing your spare tyre you could build it into the tyre well and put in a false floor. You could also mount your amps under the false floor on either side for a tidy install look.

Hmm. Well I could angle it upwards slightly to get around the height problem (if there is one). Is this going to affect the sound at all or should it be perpendicular to the surface it's pointing towards?

Dude i have a 15" sub in my boot and believe me it is an absolute b2tch to get it in and out... i have a 100 odd ltr box for mine ported... basically it is a rectangle shape fiting from back to front and with about 30cm on each side of the box for room... i suggest as someone said up a bit, to make a small box without a top that will fit very snug into the wheel well... then build another box of around 45ltr's and join the top of the box in the well to the bottom of this box... then for the top where the sub will be mount make the piece the exact shape of the whole boot so when you put it in the wood touches the edges of the boot all around it, then screw this to the box in the car. It might work out easier if u cut this top sheet into halfs before you put it in otherwise it wont go in... this is how i will be doing my custom boot before showoff, cos this way you have a completely flat boot with sub in the middle and plenty of room for amp's etc... i am going to be installing another 15 and another amp so i'll let ya knpow how it all fits, if it does lol. PS. make sure you put carpet or carboard under the box and ensure all plastic surrounds of the boot are stuck in well cos R33's have shocking boot rattle, especially the rear bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
    • Oh, I thought of that too... I disconnected the battery and hooked up the leads direct to the car without the battery in place. Sparks... I suspect the following: Alternator has decided to kill itself Starter has decided to kill itself I'll recharge the battery, then unplug both, and go from there. The above might take 6 months - however I did buy a Victron 15 AMP trickle charger, apparently it's better than CTEK? Amazon, delivery by tonight. https://www.amazon.com.au/Victron-Battery-Charger-15-Amp-waterproof/dp/B07P4LMMMD?ref_=ast_sto_dp    
×
×
  • Create New...