Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, just my 2c worth.

I have a R32 GTR and, believe it or not, a FWD mazda 626 with quad throttle body injection on it.

Both have aftermarket fuel injection on them. Both have known/measured CC/Min injectors in them. Both have a known fuel pressure at peak power. Both have a known AFR at peak power off the dyno.

Both have known duty cycle/ms delivery time at their peak KW/HP off the laptop which allows me to calculate actual fuel consumption for each engine.

This fuel consumption directly relates to kw/hp produced by the engine.

The formula that defines this relationship does not change after a good arguement ( thank god for that )

Rather than bore you with the calculations here are the results instead.

R32 GTR in 2WD mode on a dyno dymanics dyno 260rwkw/348hp> Calculated HP at the engine 530hp

or a 35% transmission loss/tire frictional losses etc etc

Mazda 626 quad T/B injection 91 FWKW/ 121 hp at the wheels > calculated HP at engine 168hp

or a 27% loss for the front wheel drive.

These are typical figures on our dyno for most rwd or fwd vehicles > ie: repeatable results

hope this helps,

Mike

R32 GTR in 2WD mode on a dyno dymanics dyno 260rwkw/348hp> Calculated HP at the engine 530hp

or a 35% transmission loss/tire frictional losses etc etc

just shy of 200hp loss, in RWD mode?

righhhhtttttt

your maths is incredibly wrong somewhere, or your dyno reads incredibly low, 200hp of loss is a MONSTEROUS amount..

As it was stated before, a % power loss is not accurate. A 700BHP GTR isnt going to lose any more power through its drivetrain than a 400BHP GTR, providing they have the same transmission/gearbox/clutch/flywheel/fluid.

Its much more logical that its a fixed amount. Someone suggested about 50-60KW of power loss from engine to rear wheel figure. And about 3-4% difference from this to an AWKW figure...

Edited by mazgtr

with my gtr there was i think 27kw(just under 30kw's) different from awkw's to rwkw's.

and somewhat the same kinda power loss with a friend of mines gtr as well. (dyno'd at the same place)

i have heard that through the attessa there is a power loss of 35% from the engine to all four wheels(the total figure put out).

True, ive seen a car with "420RWKW" only clock 119MPH. And another GTR with 390RWKW clock 136MPH. Both on stock transmission.

Clearly one car is makeing a lot more power than the other...

yes tru tru :P

my old dr30 did 11.8 @128 mph with 329rwkw

my gtr does 11.7@116mph with 315.9 rwkw.

im sure the wieght diferance will contribute but 12mph is a pretty big diff

yes tru tru >_<

my old dr30 did 11.8 @128 mph with 329rwkw

my gtr does 11.7@116mph with 315.9 rwkw.

im sure the wieght diferance will contribute but 12mph is a pretty big diff

probably all in the launch, gt-r im guessing gets out of the hole better than the DR did, meaning it gets a good first 1/4 of the track but looses out on the top end mph, where as the dr might be boggy/wheel spinning out of the hole, but has the bigger mph to get to an almost identical time..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...