Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just wanted to know why skylines are so cheap in New Zealand compared to Australia. i went on skylines downunder thinking it was Australian site and was surprised when i saw 96 skylines 4 $8000 and r32s for like $3000 N/A of course, a 98 r34 4 door for $7000 and a r33 gst-t 4 door for like $4500, they might be all autos but there still very cheap i thought. so if anyone can answer this question it would be greatly appreciated

thanks mat : :

They have no domestic car industry to protect unlike here in aus so the NZ govt dont need to slap massive import taxes and tarriffs etc on their imports, hence there is a big grey import industry over there and i dont think they need to go through the whole compliancing thing like over here either.

Price goes with demand, NZ has imports everywhere (as they are easy and cheap to bring into the country) thats why the prices are lower there aswell :(

Being a kiwi i'm really considering buying a car over there, registering it for 12 months and bringing it over as a private import, but i think by the time you get it on the road you're better off going straight from japan anyway.

so what would be involved in getting a car from there over here? same as getting one from japan? is compliance the same, or easier? we're on the same continent at least, and arent laws etc pretty similar between here and there?

from what I hear, its not worth the trouble, unless you can find a ridiculously good deal, and I do mean RIDICULOUS.

Dad's friend bought a 94 Camry back god knows when for $4000 when the market price was 12000, drove it for a few years and brought it here. Ended up still costing quite a bit and he said it was not worth all that trouble

but its like playing russian roulette on public roads sometimes..

Like you have to imagine there's 3 lanes all the time.. Anyone who's driven there for an extended period will know what I'm talking about

lol u obviously havent driven in Melbourne have you :sweat:

from what I hear, its not worth the trouble, unless you can find a ridiculously good deal, and I do mean RIDICULOUS.

Dad's friend bought a 94 Camry back god knows when for $4000 when the market price was 12000, drove it for a few years and brought it here. Ended up still costing quite a bit and he said it was not worth all that trouble

well there are R34 GTRs ive seen for sale in NZ for 35k NZD. Not to mention a lot of hot cars like STi Foresters, Autech Stageas (for about 35kNZD) and the rest.

i was thinking of buying an STi Forester and registering it in mums name over there for 12 months an get her to bring it over for her. Definately wont be many of them here in Oz

Like I was saying they are cheaper to buy but by the time you bring them over its not worth it.

Since most of my family are back in unn zed i guess i could do it really cheap, and looked into it, and i have an uncle with a massive shed i could keep the car in for a year or so, but it would still be a couple of grand for shipping etc.. then you still have to register it. Dont imagine it'd be cheaper than going thru a broker for cars straight from japan at the end of the day.

I looked at doing this when I moved back here, I had 3 motorbikes and after enquiring about it, the only way I could to it, without paying Huge import duties was break them into parts, they valued them on aussie prices and taxed on that no matter how much I paid for them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...