Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone driven a supra??


Recommended Posts

Guest Oz Elitesport

Had a drive in a N/A supra today. Thought it went fairly hard, liked the interior, but thought the sitting position sucked.

I luv my R33 Gts25t, but would be interested in hearing comments from people that have driven the twin turbo version or dragged one of them.

Does a gts25t have any chance against one of these (both stock)? What 1/4 mile times do they run?

Oz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12081-anyone-driven-a-supra/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've driven an NA Supra.... it goes alright. I personally don't like the interior that much. I've also been driven in a 200rwkw RZ Supra... that was a very tuff car.

I would say a stock 33 GTS-T would easily beat a Supra. My friends Supra and another friend's 32 GTS-T are about evenly matched.

i dont know what the rules are there anywhere in the US.

dont know any of the procedures... if u have to own it in another country before u can bring it in or what.

im going to Japan to live for a year or so cause i want to bring in a modified R32 GTR or R34 GTT... leaning more towards the GTR

should have it on the rd here in AUS by the time im 24 hopefully.

get an RZ supra with a t51r turbo kit!

i bought a skyline cause it has a decent back seat. i'd seriously consider the supra if straight line speed is what your after and convenience was not a concern - because they seriously haul a55.

my experience with driving an RZ supra was that it was driving me rather than me driving it? ie. it didn't really feel as though i had complete control of the car...and this wasn't because i was sitting on the redline lighting up the rear wheels.

:D

I've had a run in with a TT Supra, I was borrowing my brother GTR at the time, I got a good start with only all four paws slipping ever so slightly, got to say through in gear I have not had somthing that close, still a few car lengths behind, it was definatly modded up, as is the GTR

Hi all, just thought I wouls share my views on this topic.

I have been in the fortunate position to have owned and driven both the Supra (RZ TT 6sp) and the Skyline (R32 GTR).

I guess when choosing between the two, it really depends on how you get your thrills. The Supra and the Skyline are two completely different cars in how they react given certain situations.

I still remember the awesome grip offered by ATESSA during Hi RPM getaways. That is something that the Supra will never do efficiently - get away from a standing start quickly. Sure it has Traction control, but it is useless as it cuts engine power so much.

You learn to turn it off when you get into the car.

However, rolling starts are a completely different story - the torque differences between the 2JZ and the RB26 are just like night and day - you can definately feel that extra torque, and in a rolling start, stock GTR's better watch out! This aspect makes driving around town a whole lot easier for those lazy to stir the 'box alot. The boost also arrives a hell of a lot earlier - 1000 Rpm or so earlier due to the sequential turbos of the Supra. Again power at low Rpms does help around town, which is where most people are going to be driving their cars around anyway.

I cant compare the handling too objectively, as my Supra now has the full JIC coilover treatment, bigger 17" wheels, and better rubber than the Skyline, whereas the skyline was a bog stocker, but even so, I felt that the Skyline hid its porcine weight a lot better than the Supra does. The Skylines handling is sharp and once you get used to ATESSA (on the GTR) quite enjoyable to drive. It does suffer a little from power understeer in certain situations though in stock form - something im sure could be dialed out of the car with some suspension upgrades.

The supra however, currently is very direct and handles like the go-karts I race. Good point in and very little body roll. Again - its not the standard suspension, which I suspect will be softer and more compliant, which will definately not help its cause around corners due to its weight! The supra is a large heavy car, and it never lets you forget that it is really. You feel you have prescence on the road, but I find that its driving position and design of the car makes it hard to see out of and over the bonnet. It isnt because I'm height challenged either, but more to do with the sitting position. To generalise away from what I drive now though, I would say it offers less feedback and certainly a vague feeling of precisely where you are going than the skyline does.

The supra's RWD really allows you to have quite awesome fun though - especially in the wet (in an off-road controlled environment! :D ). You can get the Dorifto you know that you have always wanted (come on, you all know you want it!) very easily due to the low RPM torque characteristics of the engine, or you can light up the rear bags for as long as you want, if thats your thing!

From an aesthetic point of view however, I have to say that a properly sorted Supra certainly looks the goods and would shat all over the R32 in this department - even if it is only a N/A . It certainly doesn't take a whole lot to tart up a Supra - bodykits are a plenty! As was previously mentioned before though, rear seat room is a joke in the Supra. I have a Recaro drivers seat in my Supra, and that negates the possibility of anything except a dog in the back seat behind me. Thing is, even if you could get enough legroom in the back for someone, they better be a dwarf, as the low glass hatch is going to give you some headaches (as you bash into it multiple times) for two people however, it is comfortable and has good legroom. The skyline however is the car to have if you want the flexibility of having the ability to carry 4 people in reasonable comfort. For me, the skyline wins, as I cannot recall how many times I have had to leave people stranded for only having 2 seats in the car.

Personally, I think that the cokpit design for both cars is pretty ordinary (its better in the R33). The Supra designers were on drugs when they did the design, as it seems their brief was to use as much of the interior space on the dash as possible - as such the dash posesses way too much space for all the buttons, and you get heaps of space between all the functions required - hello plastic city. The R32 design is sound, but hey, these cars are getting old, and they are starting to look that way too - but let me add that in my opinion, its certainly better that the Supra.

Side point => Best dash, cokpit, and seating design ever - S6,7,8 RX7 (but dont get me started on that car as well....)

To conclude - whichever car you decide to get really depends on what you are after. If you are into the looks side of things (ahem....a rice boi), I'd say that there is no better place to start than with a Supra. Buy a updated 96+ model with the bigger brakes, new dash, and grey taillights, then wack your choice of body mods onto that. I'm sure you wont be dissapointed. Dont forget, the US Supra scene is HUGE (much bigger than anywhere else in the world I think) so parts and support would be much easier to obtain. Nothing quite so frustrating as waiting a week for a part from Japan to get your car back on the road.

However, if you are more of a driver, and enjoy a challenge, then I'd have to say buy a R33 GTS-t and extract the performance out of that - it has a good engine and suspension, its RWD :D, and quite restricted from the factory. If properly modified, you may be able to keep up with some of the BPU Supra TT's in the States. Dont forget though, R33's are rarer over there, so I would guess you would stand out a whole lot more (than say here in Sydney).

So decide what you want out of your car and choose appropriately!

Hope this long a$$ reply can help you out - let me know if there is any other aspects that I havent covered sufficiently as I'm more than happy to help out with some information.

Cya,

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...