Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The fact is though, when you buy immobilisers, alarms etc etc for your car your only buying yourself some time. These are just deterents. The more money you spend on your immobiliser/alarm and set up the more time it takes the thief to figure it out and steal.

So if its just a opportunistic thief he'll probably be deterred after he finds out the car can't be started easily or if the alarm goes off and doesn't want the attention.

But if the thief is prepared or has planned the take and is willing to take the time to figure out what it takes to steal your car, then there's probably not much you can do.

Remember if someone really wants your car they're going to take it. There is no such thing as making your car unstealable.

Aarms/immobilisers just make it harder and longer for them to take.

In my opinion I fully recommend getting an alarm and immobiliser fitted.

Make sure it is done properly and the person/business doing it isn't doing it on the dodge.

But that's just my opinion.

Edited by KeyMakeR33
  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I remember a while ago there were some thieves who managed to disable the OEM 2 point immobiliser in S15s quite simply.

Would have paid to have had an aftermarket alarm or a custom kill switch, given the ease in which it was done.

Oh, and PM sent Stan. :)

Reroute the exhaust pipe into the cabin when you leave the car :) Sure, your car will crash, but you'll have the comforting knowledge that a car thief burned to death inside it :dry:

haha but seriously you can get jail time for doing that... one guy boobytrapped his car radio (in the us or britain, i think) and some dude tries to steal it... and he ends up with 3 inches of steel through his hands. however the guy who did it ended up going to jail for a few months, "intent to injure" or something like that.

Can someone please PM me the theory behind a kill switch, don't need to know where you have it etc, just need to know what it does.

I don't quite get how you can have a switch that disables everything when the components are still there.

I won't bother PMing this because anyone reading this who steals cars would know all about kill-switches.

The basic idea behind a kill switch is to have a switch hooked up which will stop a vital component of the car functioning. If you hook up something like the Earth for your battery to a switch, if you turn that switch off, you can't start the car, because the circuit is not complete, therefore no power goes anywhere.

I think I might be getting a few extra bits and pieces added to my car at least make it harder for someone to knock off.

I have a quik trak system installed in my baby.

They are far better then any alarm. If your car gets stolen you receive a phone call from the company with in a minute. They then send out the police or a security company to intercept your car...

If you want any more information check out there web site...

http://www.quiktrak.com.au/

Edited by Zardos
  • 3 weeks later...

I have been thinking about few things I might be able to do to make my car more secure, I think I might put on a couple of kill switches separate to the alarm, and an internal siren might make some difference.

Or, I reckon one of these could be the go.

post-27958-1151368422.jpg

  • 5 months later...

I have a (car watch) sys by QUICK TRAK installed plus i take out a few fuses, also x? kill switches in mine....

and on top of that ive told my neighbours across the road if they spot a person/person's that isnt me near my car and catch them trying to to get in, and grab them ill give them $1000 per head, if they are convicted of the crime.

i now get atleast 5hrs sleep at night now lol.

My m8 is trying to work out how to disguise his cow prodder as a club lock hehe

ill post the fin product when he is done.

Edited by Borgs

My R is parked in a locked garage 95% of the time. Also $500 alarm system. If its parked outside its parked close the house and faces a tree in the centre so its a little 3point to get it out if theres another car in the way.

I wouldn't mind a QUIK TRAK system. I think there was a WRX on one of the first High Octanes that had that Datadot (or similar) system, sound the biznez!

Heh, funny that they post it on boost too... usually shows the kind of skyline drivers they are (no alarms, no imob, no security).

I have stuff in my car, and it's never far from me. I also live in whoop whoop with animals and stuff. I am still paranoid about it getting stolen... Because it's my daily it's hard to goto the movies =\

Sitting there then all of a sudden... my car is letting me know there is a issue... out the movie I go and check the car. Yes it's insured, but I'd rather not have the issue in the first place.

Skyline > Movie... though... sex with hot chick... Nah! Skyline > hottie

I have been on call-out's before to get cars going with aftermarket immobilisers, and all I can say is that most times it took 5-10mins to locate the aftermarket wiring, either rejoin or put power into those circuits that were immobilised and get the car running.

Takes longer to lock the car up in our workshop overnight.

Cheers

Sumo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...