Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yikes! A decent 11-plate Century battery shouldn't cost more than $120

You might need to make sure that you get one with the correct terminal-size, as the stock terminal clamps are both of the small size.

Just ask a decent mechanic where to get one. Don't get one from a crummy joint, as the battery has probably been sitting there for yonks. Maybe call Century batteries and ask them where and how much?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121465-r33-battery/#findComment-2239043
Share on other sites

Hi Dude

I was quite particular about the battery being a sealed unit as well and wanted to find one as close as to the original one that came with my R33 SII as well. Unfortunately to get one like the original jap one is virtaully impossible and even if I could I was told they cost about 3 time more in price

With this being the case I rang around got the low down on batteries and then spoke to a mob called Battery World and got a top of the range that was a sealed unit identical in size & with the breather hole.

It came to about $130 cash. I got them down in price by paying cash and to make sure that the battery was the same size I brought the original one down to compare.

It's been in the car for about a year and works just like a treat. To boot it came with a 3 year warranty as well

One other thing I found these days they don't refer to plates any more but cold cranking. I can't remeber what my was but at the time it was about the highest you could get.

So I suggest you ring around and get prices and make sure you get the best you can afford without being ripped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121465-r33-battery/#findComment-2240174
Share on other sites

I got a 560cca euro style vented battery for my R33, all I had to do was buy a new hold down clamp. Don't ever use a non-vented battery, aside for the expolsive risk, it will rust your boot out. Saw an R33 GTR with the wrong battery with a big rust streak!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121465-r33-battery/#findComment-2252414
Share on other sites

ive got a fully sealed ROCKET battery. 13 row, 560cca with vents for $110.

got it from globe battery sales.. for anyone whos in syd the address is:

7 davies rd padstow.. you cant miss it, its got flashing lights outside it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121465-r33-battery/#findComment-2256933
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
×
×
  • Create New...