Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to ask if i should drive my car around because i need some quotes from panel beaters.

The question that i wanted to ask is about that little fan in front of the radiator.

Mine isnt working... most likely due to the car accident.

Curious if i should be driving it without that working.

I left it on idle for about 1/2 hr to see how it goes and it was fine.

The rest of the car is fine just really some body damage but they are fixable.

Also can any panel beater be able to fix my car or are there some people that i have to go to?

Just wondering...

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121889-should-i-drive-the-car/
Share on other sites

One little tip as I've learnt the hard way.

Attempt to avoid the pump shops.

Take the car to enthuaist crash shops/spray painters.

Look for nice cars in the parking lot not commodores/falcoons.

If there's no leaks and everything looks ok drive it and get quotes.

I'm assuming its under insurance?

yea i would like to take it to a smash repair place that has done imported cars before... just dont know where to take it to around Penrith, Sydney area.

Yea i wish it was under insurance... guess i learned my lesson

your car should be ok with the temps the way they are, however dont go for long trips of highway driving and try not to get stuck in traffic. if you are getting it fixed on insurance ask the insurance company who they use and get quotes from them, also look for a place that gives you a warrenty on their work

long trips on highway would keep the engine cooler then long trips in traffic. if you can keep the car above 50km/h as much as possible then it should not over heat in the cool temps we got atm.

Just make sure the temp gauge does not get anywhere near the top. Should be ok to drive unless its very hot and your driving in traffic for longer then 20 mins.

Edited by Guilt-Toy

The little fan in front of the radiator is only for the air con and when the water temp gets up to 95 degrees or so.

So driving it around on a winters day with the heater on rather than the aircon isn't going to cause problems.

Unless you have removed the factory viscous fan.......:)

  • 2 weeks later...

Yea just realised the little fan in front of the radiator must be the aircon fan... that shouldnt be a problem.

Also got a ridiculous quote from Emu Plains Smash Repairs.

They said that the body will cost me about under $6000. I think thats a pretty ripoff quote.

Here are the main things that got damaged from the accident. Besides this all ive got to worry about is that rear right wheel on a slight angle.

Do you think this will cost me $6000?

post-27024-1150800966.jpg

post-27024-1150801008.jpg

Yeah 6k sounds a bout right, theres alot of bits that need to be replaced; bumpers, guard, rear light, it all adds up. You did a good job on the quarter! even if it was pulled out or replaced either way thats the most expensive task.

Yeah $6k sounds reasonable. Don't forget they've gotta paint a fair amount too, but the rear quarters are a fair bit of work. Unfortunately not as simple as just bolting on a new panel. Still definately shop around though, but remember you get what you pay for. I've seen this is specifically the case when it comes to body repairs...

Yea just curious about my right rear back wheel.

Since its on a slight angle... just looking for a figure here.

How much is it to replace the whole suspension? If its even got anything to do with suspension?

If to repair the damages of that back wheel costs as close to $2000 then I might as well buy the whole suspension kit from Sydneykid

Call a wrecker and ask what a complete rear subframe is worth minus the diff or just replace what is bent. ;)

Sydneykids suspension kit is simply shocks and springs, bushes etc.

The reason your wheel will be bunged out is possibly a bent suspension arm of some sort.

Oh really... Guess my car wont be on the road for a while.

Looks like ive just gotta save at the moment.

A complete rear subframe... they dont come very cheap do they?

I'll try that out... I'll give a wrecker a ring.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...