Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, I am having an issue with my Oil Gauge and just wanted some thoughts / suggestions.

I have put in a new cluster because I screwed my old one up by pulling off the needles. :D

After putting it in I check and everything looked to be OK (Oil pressue reads just below 4 - half way) but after looking down last night and seeing it sitting just about 0, I thought oh crap (but everything was running perfectly!!) I checked it out when I got home and there are no leaks and the oil level is fine.

I started it up this morning and up to 4 it went, all looked good and took off for work. 10-20k's later I look down with it in mind and it is once again around 0... hmmm, about 5 mins later it is back near 4! (This is making me think that it is a dodgy gauge because I am guessing I would notice a difference between the two pressure levels - am I right??) Pretty much the same deal on the way home!

I have just replaced the turbo with an R34 turbo and have done the timing belt / water pump...

I am putting it down to a dodgy gauge however I thought it would be a good idea to post to make sure it is not something obvious / severly wrong!!!

Any suggestions or advice would be MUCH appreciated!

Thanks, Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122256-oil-gauge-reading-just-above-0/
Share on other sites

This is what I just put in another post similar to your problem....

BTW it was the countersunk screws in the back of the oil pump had come loose - go figure??

Had EXACTLY this problem - drove it around for 6 mths as oil pressure and noise came and went and still made good power, BUT, it cost me.

Big ends 3&5 (i think had burnt to a crisp -totaly stuffed and crank scoured also so RODS & CRANK needed to be replaced.

Worse it was a AWD ( GTS4) RB20DET so harder to find.

Blind_Elk came to the rescue with his orig RB20DET as he put a Stagea RB25 AWD in his GTS4.

Turbine, Glenn, pulled the crank and rods from his motor and fitted to mine as my block and pistons were much better and less rego hassels.

Will be putting the rebuilt motor back in this weekend with luck :D

Get someone to check your oil pressure with a decent gauge.

It's quite common for the factory gauge to read like that.

It is usually the oil pressure sender on the motor at fault rather than the gauge itself but as you've been playing with the gauge it seems like a bit of a coincidence that it would be another problem.

I think it might just be the gauge or the sender unit. Keep an eye on it when driving. Mine sits abit under the halfway mark, then suddenly drops straight to 0.. car runs fine and had it serviced last week.

Think my problem is related to the gauge. I'll be going for some aftermarket gauges soon so we will know then!

Get a mechanic to put a master guage on it or put a mechanical guage on it yourself. if pressures are good look at the electrics. Should not see less than 20psi at idle at operating temp and should climb when the rpm increases. will peak at around 65psi. these pressures might vary slightly depending on what grade oil you are running.

Hey Guys, I am having an issue with my Oil Gauge and just wanted some thoughts / suggestions.

I have put in a new cluster because I screwed my old one up by pulling off the needles. :D

After putting it in I check and everything looked to be OK (Oil pressue reads just below 4 - half way) but after looking down last night and seeing it sitting just about 0, I thought oh crap (but everything was running perfectly!!) I checked it out when I got home and there are no leaks and the oil level is fine.

I started it up this morning and up to 4 it went, all looked good and took off for work. 10-20k's later I look down with it in mind and it is once again around 0... hmmm, about 5 mins later it is back near 4! (This is making me think that it is a dodgy gauge because I am guessing I would notice a difference between the two pressure levels - am I right??) Pretty much the same deal on the way home!

I have just replaced the turbo with an R34 turbo and have done the timing belt / water pump...

I am putting it down to a dodgy gauge however I thought it would be a good idea to post to make sure it is not something obvious / severly wrong!!!

Any suggestions or advice would be MUCH appreciated!

Thanks, Todd

I have this exact same issue....

I have always ignored it, knowing that oil pressure senders/gauges tend to be faulty and scare the shit out of their owners...............

But now I'm scared.. I might just go and check out the oil pressure next week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
    • Off the back of feedback we have decided to mix up this next Motorkhana at Avalon to have some targeted skills practice for beginners to advanced. Saturday 6th September 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Friday 5th February  Where: 55 beach road Avalon. https://maps.app.goo.gl/HNUE3EuNue3sJxh38 Entries: Limited to 26 entrants (Passengers allowed over the age of 14 with a signed disclaimer and same safety gear) Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license via the AASA Website for $50) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/  A helmet, long sleeve clothing and a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher recommended (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs on the enty link. Entry Link > https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250906 You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Bring your car and get to battle others, win, lose or draw. I can guarantee you will have lots of fun. Any questions email [email protected] Entry List:
    • Wanna rewrite all of that in, say, 2 or 3 separate sentences, so that we can read it?
×
×
  • Create New...