Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if there are any difficulties in doing this job?

I have been having trouble with 4th gear for a while now and after reading over the RB20 Box thread beleive it to be the 4th gear syncro.

Now would anything need to be changed re: Push to Pull clutch? Diff's?

This is something i'd like to look at doin even if the box is still alive as i would like it to be strong but i don't have the option of going to a RB25 box even though the GTR box is very similar.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122344-converting-r32-gts4-to-gtr-box/
Share on other sites

As far as I am aware the two gearboxes are the same except for the input shaft, ie same strength... This is part of an email I recieved from daniel at fitzpatric speedworks:

If manual the gearbox will take it no probs they are basically the exact same as a gtr except the input shaft size and this isnt where the weakness is, but a gts4 box will be fine for 250rwkw as long as you respect it and dont flat change or violently drop the clutch etc

Hope this helps ;)

hnr32 (gts4) and previous-term bnr32 (gt-r) boxes are both push-types, from 1993 all bnr boxes are pull-type.

There is a difference in gear ratios -- bnr box has 1,2,3,5 gears "longer" cause it is more suitable for high torque engine.

afaik both boxes are equally strong and there is no differences in reliability.

p.s. since bnr32 and hnr32 have different final gear ratio -- they should have different speedometer gears in transfer case and different speed sensors. i`m not sure -- it is wise to check it with NISSAN FAST.

As i'm "PLANNING" a rebuild with Cams, Cam Gears and a 2530/5 with the rest of the supporting goods would it be safe to say the GTR box would be a good option then with the added power/torque (as far as dealing with the ratios)?

As i know the ratios are different because i'd be lucky to get 45-50km/h tops out of 1st in my GTS4. Now i'm not after some stupidly high 80km/h in forst or anything.

Im just after something with a little taller ratios thats all?

Any opinions?

Edited by MADGT4

im fairly sure my R32 gts-4 has a gtr box in it.. but it was put in when my gts-4 was converted from auto to manual.. mot likely in japan

anyone wanna varify if this is a gtr box or not

boxbox.JPG

-Ruffels

You won't be able to tell from the outside, the box casing is the same and as far as I know the numbers are too. The only way will be to check the speedo against a gts4 with a gts 4 box or jack the car up, car in 1st, wheels off ground (supported by stands of course) and turn the engine over by hand and count how many times it takes to turn the prop shaft 1 turn - and compare against the gearbox ratios of the two boxes.

Edited by gts4diehard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...