Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's a little write up on how to install a boost gauge into the drivers side vent of an R32.

post-10239-1150443012.jpg

*disclaimer: If anything goes wrong or you break anything while following this post it's not my fault.

Items needed:

Phillips head screw driver

Socket Set

Spare vacuum line (the thin stuff that just fits the clear autometer tube inside it)

plastic T piece that fits the above vacuum line

Masking tape

Step 1

IMPORTANT Open the bonnet. It's easier to now than it is later

Remove the dash piece that's above the pedals and below the steering wheel.

- there are 4 screws along the top side

- 2 screws along the bottom side (32 gtst)

- 1 screw at the side (covered by the door when it's closed)

- 2 bolts that also hold in the bonnet release

n.b. Unplug the beeper after you've unscrewed everything (you'll see it when you do it)

Step 2

Once you've removed this piece you'll notice that the vent is attached. Unscrew the two screws holding it in and remove.

Step 3

Now what you'll notice is that you've got a nice little hole where you should be able to fit your gauge. Some fit, but with the autometer boost gauge that we had there was no chance of getting it in.

If this happens you need a Dremel. If you don't know what a Dremel is, maybe you should get someone that does and have them finish the install :P

Ok, now if you check the packaging that came with your autometer gauge you should notice that it came with a circular tube of hard cardboard in which it was placed. Get this tube and use it to see how much of the hole you need to widen.

Now with the autometer gauge I was lucky cause I basically just needed to shave off the clean rounded edge around the hole.

There was a lot to take off regardless. It's just this edge gave me something to work towards so that I kept the hole round, and didn't go too far.

Step 4

Dremel time.

I used this attachment.

post-10239-1150444255.jpg

Now here's where I wish I had taken more photos.

I didn't use this attachment to cut into the hole, I used it kinda like you would sand paper. Shaving away this inside of the hole slowly. TAKE YOUR TIME. Do NOT hack away at the hole, just shave the edges down slowly, moving around the hole till it's bigger.

Eventually it'll be big enough. Keep checking.

Step 5

Insert the gauge.

post-10239-1150443245.jpg

Here you can see the snug fit. It was actually so snug I couldn't get it back out again. So make sure you've lined it up properly before you push it all the way in.

Step 6

How the hell do you get the vacuum feed from the engine to the gauge??

Have a look in the engine bay.

post-10239-1150443392.jpg

The vacuum line highlighted by the red arrow is what we need to cut.

It currently feeds the stock boost gauge controller (the little box on the left).

Now look to the left a bit more and you'll see a hole.

post-10239-1150443315.jpg

This is your entrance into the cars cabin.

Here's the other side of that hole.

post-10239-1150443100.jpg

...and a bit closer. (Note I've already pushed the clear autometer tubing through the hole)

post-10239-1150443173.jpg

Step 7

Feeding the line.

- Grab an old coat hanger.

- Unwind it.

- Grab the clear autometer tubing.

- Line up the end of the tubing with one of the ends of the coat hanger wire.

- Tape around the end of the tubing and the wire tightly... make the end smooth and one piece basically.

- Get in the car.

- You see this rubber stuff?

post-10239-1150443173.jpg

- Poke a hole through it, then shove the coat hanger plus tube (taped end first) in through here.

- Now go and have a look in the engine bay.

- You should see the coat hanger and the tube in here.

post-10239-1150443315.jpg

- Grab it and pull it through.

Now that wasn't hard was it? Few mins and your done. So many people told me this step would take forever and was a bitch... sif.

Step 8

Attaching the Tpiece.

Cut the vacuum line pictured.

post-10239-1150443392.jpg

And attach the Tpiece.

Then cut the clear tube to size....

post-10239-1150443464.jpg

All done for the engine bay.

Step 9

Connecting the vacuum line to the gauge.

N.b. Ensure you leave enough slack in the vacuum line to get the gauge plus dash piece out again once installed.

Basically follow the instructions for you gauge at this point.

With autometer gauges, be careful not to twist or bend the clear tubing when screwing the attachment onto the gauge.

Step 10

Making it light up.

Grab the 12v feed from your cigarette lighter. It's the easiest 12v wire that goes "hot" when the headlights are turned on to find.

post-10239-1150443529.jpg

Wire this up as you would anything else. If you don't know how to do this, you shouldn't be installing the gauge.

Step 11

Admire your work.

post-10239-1150442922.jpg

post-10239-1150443012.jpg

thats a nice write up and a good idea

  • 6 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

hey guys im taking my boost gauge out (for regency) and need to plug up the t-piece so i can unplug it and re-install boost guage after. anyone know of a piece or 'plug' to do this?

thanks in advance

Also interested in a response to this question...Shogun did you have any luck?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi guys, I got a question regarding this install

My car's standard boost gauge does not work properly, on the stock gauge the boost starts at -7 rather than 0 and once on boost it goes up to 0 (rather than +7). Any ideas of what the problem could be?

Nonetheless, i am looking at installing a new boost gauge anyway and locating it at the driver's side vent as shown in this tutorial. Only one problem... My car doesn't have a cigarette lighter (a large pockets sits there instead), so i'm just asking if there are any other places i could wire up the boost gauge apart from the lighter?

Cheers

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I did mine today, my gauge was smaller. Small enough to fit snuggly in the swivel-ball when I cut out the fins. Haha

I need to trim a little chunk out of the rear shroud to make it flush. You're tut is great and easy to follow. :-)

post-94192-0-46498300-1341068578_thumb.jpg

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...

"Grab the 12v feed from your cigarette lighter. It's the easiest 12v wire that goes "hot" when the headlights are turned on to find."

I'm confused. What do you mean by "hot when the headlights are turned on"? Isn't the cigarette lighter power always on with ignition?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...