Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you can thread the wires up the pillar pretty easily. just remove the kickplate and the cover on the side of the foot well, then remove the rubber from the door frame. you can slide the wires up the side of the A-pillar cover and out the hole from the tweeter cover.

stock split wires come together deep in the dash. Dont bother to use them mate, they are pissy wire anyway.

As terminal said, I ran my tweeter wires up behind the kickplates, then between the dash and the body and up into the A-pillar.

woofer(meaning, for splits) wires I just used the stock wires...i know, but i cbf'ed to replace em.

My amp is also under my passenger seat. Just remove the stock airvent under there and run the wires through there. I put some MDF below the carpet and drilled/screwed the amp onto that.

  • 1 year later...

all i did was flick out the cover with a screw driver. unscrew the stock tweeter.. throw that sumwhere ull never find it. run your new wire down tha a piller. n poke it out on the door side.. poke it behind the dash with a screw driver, mount your cross over under the kick panel on the drivers side and ecu cover on passenger side. stockwires for woofer.. jsut take out the door trim (yes there is a screw in the bit that you pull on to close! (tooke me a while :banana:) then i just pulled out the head unit worked out what was the front speaker wire head unit to amp imput on x over. and what that was connected to goes to your woofer out put on the x over. took me like hr n half 2 hrs to do a semi ligit job... also i did mine in pares like both the tweeters mounted, both the woofers mounted, etc etc gd luck

that looks SICK! well done ! and woulda saved a HEAP of time

I am going thru the epic stereo install from hell at the moment haha.. I am just worried I didnt give em enough wattage- 50w RMS all round - I have the Hertz 165's too - so hopefully that gives them enough power

what i did with mine....
  • 10 months later...
I put mine where the stock ones came. I did not have stock ones come with the car, so i drilled holes and put there in there.

To remove that A pillar part, you need to do the following (easiest this way)

- Remove front seats

- Remove door sills/kick panels

- Remove the covers for the seatbelt things

- Remove A pillar thing

Trust me when I say, this is NOTHING compared to removing the rear bar! Just a quick run down of the rear bar

- Remove boot carpet

- Remove holders/plastic caps etc

- Remove plastic from sides

- Remove wall carpet

- Remove rear bar

That takes about 2h, compared to the A pillar ~30 minutes.

In my system, I LOVE the tweeters placed where they are. My Hertz HSK165's are splits, with woofers in the doors and tweeters on the A Pilar. As there is no midrange speaker, the balance is made via tuning the EQ.

Hertz does actually stock midrange speakers, but not on the RS4.

If you want a comment on my sound systems pumpage, I honestly dont think it could sound any better than the way it is, ask Ian, aka humble.

i was skimming over this to see how to get the a pillar plastic off and just had a question. why does the seat need to come out??

that looks SICK! well done ! and woulda saved a HEAP of time

I am going thru the epic stereo install from hell at the moment haha.. I am just worried I didnt give em enough wattage- 50w RMS all round - I have the Hertz 165's too - so hopefully that gives them enough power

thats what mine have, needs more :laugh:

i was skimming over this to see how to get the a pillar plastic off and just had a question. why does the seat need to come out??

Both AlexCim and myself mounted amps under our seats :D

my stock system still running the stock amp but aftermarket head unit, no need to upgrade my system.

unless it was done in japan ? cause it pumps pretty damn good ;):banana:

and no room underseats for amps, got electric heated seats.

so i saved myself about 800bucks in speakers :D HIGH FIVE!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...