Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why does cyl no. 6 lean out ?

after having read many threads lately in regards to this issue and knowing how much of a common problem it is for all (yes all rb's 20/25/26/30) i wanted to get peoples feedback on this.

when flow bench testing any standard rb inlet manifold there is a common issue which continually arsies and causes many people problems when it comes to tuning and maintaining a healthy engine. cylinder no 6 flows considerably less air than other cyliders which in theory would cause rich mixtures (remember fuel flow is partially dictacted by pressure and not flow i.e. same fuel flow - as other cylinders - contributing to a rich mixture) but there is constant comments indicating that issues with cylinder no 6 (mainly detonation causing collapsed ring lands, blown head gaskets etc) are caused by the plenum flowing too much air to this cylinder. this is most common within rb26 discussions.

is it really the lack of flow of oil/water to the rear of the crank/block ?

how would you fix it ?

does anyone have egt logs for each cylinder ?

note - pressure should no come into this equation as it equal regardless of flow.

ps - i am in no way trying to promote what i do. just trying to get some sort of consistency when it comes to the truth behind this, all to common, problem.

Ariel

Edited by ISL33P
  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if number 6 is running rich, shouldn't number 1 as well? and (design wise) an after market plenum would have to have more chance of number 6 running rich as it is furterest from the throttle body, even though they are bigger than a stock one. i know it flows more air, is it was the same size as a stock then it would richen up more on number 6.

we looked into this when i chopped our plenum and i found that bouncing the air flow off the back of the chamber helped to distibute the air more evenly, this was acheived by curving the T/B neck toward the cam belt cover more.

th.3b4491a8aa.jpg

The engine is in pices now and no 6 piston shows no signs of detonation.

i have built another plenum for another engine, a toyota, with bellmouths to eliminate these problems too, so far so good.

we looked into this when i chopped our plenum and i found that bouncing the air flow off the back of the chamber helped to distibute the air more evenly, this was acheived by curving the T/B neck toward the cam belt cover more.

air bouncing off the back wall would cause, what some people call, a "dead" spot in the plenum which is where the air is having no effect on the plenums performance and is not being used by any cylinders.

how did you come to this conclusion, was it just from looking at the piston/plugs/runners of the plenum or do you have egt's or flow numbers to confirm this ?

The engine is in pices now and no 6 piston shows no signs of detonation.

i have built another plenum for another engine, a toyota, with bellmouths to eliminate these problems too, so far so good.

there are theories that say bellmouths are no good and only increase turbulence and these same people support the chamfered edge runners as they come from factory. how do the bellmouths fix the problem ?

i am not at all doubting what you are saying, i am only asking these questions for the sake of everyone reading, so please do not take offence to it.

Ariel

what #7 ?

so you are saying #6 injector will be the cause in every car. just seems strange that every #6 injector would cause such a common problem ??

that brings to light the argument about fuel rail and the positioning of the supply and return lines.

Edited by ISL33P

mines use the stock fuel rail and plenum, i guess they were ok with it and their power target. they probably just dialed in the highest flowing injector into #6 and maybe did a slight trim like busty2k said

mines use the stock fuel rail and plenum, i guess they were ok with it and their power target.

just out of curiosity what was their power level

they probably just dialed in the highest flowing injector into #6 and maybe did a slight trim like busty2k said

probably doesn't provide answers

maybe we look at the wrong side of motor.

maybe the exhaust side is the issue, maybe #6 has better cylinder scavenging and actually runs leaner because of that.

more of the burnt air that exits, means more fresh air into the chamber, more air and the same quantity of fuel = leaner, compared with cylinders that don't scavenge as well.

do equal length turbo extractor engines still have this issue, all only stock manifold engines?

just trying to add to the conversation...

know thats the king of thinking i am after.

it appears to be a problem with std and equal length as i have seen it with both std, ebay and reputalbe aussie brand exh manifold but i like the theory and it is something that also needs to be taken into consideration.

Edited by ISL33P

I like this subject because it has alot to do with aerodynamics.

The trick is to trim the engines breathing through all cylinders to be equal. Manifolding the engine correctly (physically), not by fitting the highest flowing injector, or increasing the injector end time in your ECU to be longer than the other cylinders. Do all that when you have a resonably ballanced air path first.

I've seen 2.0L Toyota six cylinder engines develope 700HP with very little work done to their intake manifold, running 65mm pipes to and from the intercooler.

I've read that the nissan RB20/25 DET intake is good for 300rwkw without many mods. Beyond that figure it must be unbalanced.

As for detonation/breakages in No.6 cylinder, well the air side of things is just the start of its problems.

I like this subject because it has alot to do with aerodynamics.

The trick is to trim the engines breathing through all cylinders to be equal. Manifolding the engine correctly (physically), not by fitting the highest flowing injector, or increasing the injector end time in your ECU to be longer than the other cylinders. Do all that when you have a resonably ballanced air path first.

i agree totally

I've read that the nissan RB20/25 DET intake is good for 300rwkw without many mods. Beyond that figure it must be unbalanced.

therefore its unbalanced from the start. that would mean the unbalancing is only having a major effect on air distribution when the airflow required for 300rwkw is demanded

this may explain why less powerful engines are seeing these problems when combined with 1 or more other influencing problems.

Edited by ISL33P
air bouncing off the back wall would cause, what some people call, a "dead" spot in the plenum which is where the air is having no effect on the plenums performance and is not being used by any cylinders.

how did you come to this conclusion, was it just from looking at the piston/plugs/runners of the plenum or do you have egt's or flow numbers to confirm this ?

there are theories that say bellmouths are no good and only increase turbulence and these same people support the chamfered edge runners as they come from factory. how do the bellmouths fix the problem ?

i am not at all doubting what you are saying, i am only asking these questions for the sake of everyone reading, so please do not take offence to it.

Ariel

the skyline plenum we messed about on a flow bench changing the angle of the neck, and the bellmouths are of a design (in theory) that the air flows around the B/M that protude into the plenum so airflow isn't biased to any cylinder, ie pressure equalises before the runner draws on it, works for N/A, but ive only had it going a short time on a turbo toyota.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...