Jump to content
SAU Community

Power House ER34...


Recommended Posts

Guest neoGT-25

hey all, i am thinking of a mod list for my car when its time to turbo it...

I would like to use my engine that i have now because it has less K's than an older RB25DET... :S

ok heres what i am thinking about (please tell me what you think and make comments or sugestions or whatever, most of what i say wont make sense scince im pretty car dumb)

Keep in mind i dont really want a drag car... just a VERY tough track/street/drift car :S if that made sense? bah... heres the list

some form of a high torque TRUST turbo...?

TRUST Wastegate & manifold?

TRUST FMIC of some form (ive heard they are better than most intercoolers?)

A'PEXi POWER FC

full A'PEXi N1 exhaust system

A'PEXi RSM

TEIN adjustable suspension?

Brembo break kit?

internals obviesly (what things should i change?)

what sort of clutch would i need?

what other stuff would i need and what sort of pricing am i looking at for these components?

any help is appreciated :D

byes :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12309-power-house-er34/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by neoGT-25

NOOOOOOOOO i love my car... and my engine dosent have many K's on it... other cars can handle turbo so why couldent mine? like theres civics, mirages, 323's, lancers that have been turbod... why wouldent mine handle a turbo?

The internals, are not stock on those.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12309-power-house-er34/#findComment-222550
Share on other sites

nismo_boy is right, and the money ud spend on upgrading the internals on your current engine is better spent on a straight swap from a gt-t r34. afaik the turbo engine has more cooling paths in and around the cylinders and block so its going to last longer and if the stock neo rb25det doesnt sate your need for power you can always put stronger internals into it and run even more power than you ever could through your rb25de with a turbo strapped on the side for good measure

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12309-power-house-er34/#findComment-222577
Share on other sites

So who here has made their non-turbo a turbo with stock internals? Oh wait that's me! YES it can be done, yes you can make your car haul ass, BUT you have to know your limits and accept them...

For those who are interested my old n/a - turbo 32 is still kicking around Rocky, buggers me how it's still going but it is...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12309-power-house-er34/#findComment-223764
Share on other sites

Guest neoGT-25

hey people... if you noticed... at the top of my first thread i said not now but when im ready for it "i am thinking of a mod list for my car when its time to turbo it... " :P LOL, no one listens... i dunno wanna swap my engine i just wanna change my internals ;)

and i want a high torque turbo... what sre some high torque turbos? trust ones? :D

meh, byes all :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12309-power-house-er34/#findComment-223976
Share on other sites

when the time comes, buy a neo 25det and 5spd gearbox incl standard ecu. you can extract more power more easily.

and most likely cheaper.

I was lucky enough to get the conversion parts cheap enough so

i turboed my 25de and its still goin fine - although my clutch is giving up the gig after 60,000kms of extra torque it was never meant to see.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12309-power-house-er34/#findComment-223988
Share on other sites

to get serious turbo action from that car u'd have to look at lowering the compression in your engine to see serious boost levels, which would mean pistons and gasket. get nismo ones. and then to optimise ur turbo, i'm thinking hks 2830, which is one big turbo, u'd need camshafts, get hks ones, which would mean u'd have to change ur valve springs and retainers, possibly valves as well becos ur ones wouldn't be made to flow turbos.

and then u'd have to change ur exhaust system completely to accomodate the turbo. don't forget cam gears.

u'd need a good front mount to cool down the air too, hks or nismo items do the job well, as will trust items.

don't forget u'd need an improved fuel delivery system as well. injectors, fuel pump better fuel rail and the works.

by then u'd want a serious management system to maximise fuel efficiency, so u'd be looking at probably power fc or motec.

and to put that power down properly, u'd want serious wheels like volks 18 inch rims and good tyres.

of course u'd wanna stop, which would mean brakes upgrade.

and u'd probably need a new twin plate clutch to handle that power, not to mention ur driveshaft, which isn't made to handle the projected 600bhp.

u'll probably be looking at over 70 grand worth of parts, which doesn't include labour.

so my advice would be to take that 80 grand or so and buy a gtr.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12309-power-house-er34/#findComment-235675
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...