Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R33 should be going into the workshop tomorrow to start getting the engine rebuilt, I'll be getting a few things that need to be done to it, these include:

  • Forged Pistons
  • Bearings
  • Rings
  • Blueprinted
  • Machined
  • Metal Headgasket

Is there anything else that I should be doing while the engine is out and getting rebuilt? Any ideas or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

The rest of the car is just about stock besides:

  • Pod Fillter
  • Exhaust
  • Sound System
  • Boost Control (Running Standerd 7psi)

- R33 MidnightRacer

Edited by R33MidnightRacer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123246-any-ideas-for-re-build/
Share on other sites

you'd get more gains doing this all to an rb30.

add

- n1 or similar oil pump.

- cams

- check the head for any damage (cracks, lifters, valves, springs)

theres a shitload of things you can do.. just go to your workshop and say.... "i'll have 1 of each (2 where applicable)"

give us a price range and we'd be able to tell you more accuratly.

Well the re-build is going to cost around $5000 - I don't want to spend a great deal more - but anything that isn't going to cost a great deal I'll see if I can do it.

But, everything will be checked when the engine gets removed from the car, so when it is finished it should be running pretty well.

How much would n1 oil pump and cams cost roughly SECUR1TY?

Thanks for your input though! :whistling:

- R33 MidnightRacer

Is it a series 1 or 2.

If its a series 1 grab an R33 RB26 crank, possibly rb26 rods and pistons.

If thats not an option then be sure you throw an oil pump drive collar on the stock crank as to prevent future oil pump breakage.

If you can't find an R33 RB26 crank be sure to throw the crank collar on an R32 rb26 crank. :whistling:

At least with a set of stock rb26 rods you can feel safe pushing up to 400rwkw.

The RB26 crank gives you a little more displacement, throw that together with 87mm pistons and you have 2628cc vs the rb25's standard of 2498cc.

There's one bloke that recently used an RB26 block, std rb30 crank that has been destroked, rb26 rods and custom pistons for 2.9ltrs all within the std rb26 block. Allthough the r/s ratio isn't ideal it is holding together at around 400rwkw if I remember correctly.

So thats another option to discuss with your engine builder, see what he thinks.

i agree with everyone else. forgies are a waste of $ for a stock motor.

you should look into an rb30det instead as a rebuild option as the others have said. you can use stock econo box parts and get some kick ass gains from it. i think you can just plonk in poor mans rb30e pistons and use them for conservative power levels

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
    • I started removing the tank a while back with the intent to give it a proper clean. Got to a bolt that I couldn't undo completely due to a diff being in the way, so just said f**k it and siphoned the gluggy old fuel out and called it a day. Looking it the tank it looks less corroded than the one in the pics for that billet hanger from Frenchy's anyway. Isn't it the fuel filters job to worry about this stuff? I scraped off most the crusty shit of the hanger but will give it another go before reinstall coz maybe the fuel and return pipes are also full of gunk  
    • Pretty sure it is a common fault. I believe this is the only part you need, but don't quote me as I don't have a V36.  I also believe it is a bit of a pain to change and the device needs to be encoded to the car once it is replaced, so may need someone with the right tools. Buy Genuine Nissan 48700JF00D (48700-JF00D) Lock Set-Steering. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama
×
×
  • Create New...