Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas, as i had my car on the hoist the other day i noticed i had pretty bad camber wear on the inside of my back tyres.. And considering the prices for 18 x 10 265's are not cheap! I called Pedders and the quoted me $190 per Camber arm + fitting... a total of $530! it was a joke honestly... I love the way it sits but it will cost me too much on the long run with having to change tyres every 6 - 12 months

Can anyone please recommend what else i can do to get my camber problem fixed?

Regards,

Sarkis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123495-camber-wear-on-tyres-help/
Share on other sites

s141533rearctrlarms.jpg

JJR Rear Upper Adjustable Control Arms Price: $149 (Pair)

Suit Skyline R33 GTS-T, S14 & S15

justjap.com

hope that helps

Ed

My only concern with aftermarket suspension arms is the issue it may cause over the pits or insurance should one have an accident. For offroad use.. fine.

unless these items have been approved?

Grab the whiteline items, you can't go wrong.

My only concern with aftermarket suspension arms is the issue it may cause over the pits or insurance should one have an accident. For offroad use.. fine.

unless these items have been approved?

Grab the whiteline items, you can't go wrong.

I have series2 R33. I puit the whiteline adjustable arms on it. gave me what i needed and seems good quality (saw some cheap imported stuff that scared me) If to expensive. Superpro or probably even Whiteline will do camber adjustment bushes, but doubt you will gety same amount of adjustment.

Regards

R Dirty 3

Hey fellas, as i had my car on the hoist the other day i noticed i had pretty bad camber wear on the inside of my back tyres.. And considering the prices for 18 x 10 265's are not cheap! I called Pedders and the quoted me $190 per Camber arm + fitting... a total of $530! it was a joke honestly... I love the way it sits but it will cost me too much on the long run with having to change tyres every 6 - 12 months

Can anyone please recommend what else i can do to get my camber problem fixed?

Regards,

Sarkis

Whiteline camber kits on the Group Buy as follows;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467

Excessive negative camber is directly related to height. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard;

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

Note that 350/340 is the best height for handling and ride comfort

:) cheers :P

Hi i have seen rear camber kits for R33's on Ebay for a $149 a set .. Besides i wouldnt go to pedders any how they are over priced and over rated in their products check out the link..

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

Hey fellas, as i had my car on the hoist the other day i noticed i had pretty bad camber wear on the inside of my back tyres.. And considering the prices for 18 x 10 265's are not cheap! I called Pedders and the quoted me $190 per Camber arm + fitting... a total of $530! it was a joke honestly... I love the way it sits but it will cost me too much on the long run with having to change tyres every 6 - 12 months

Can anyone please recommend what else i can do to get my camber problem fixed?

Regards,

Sarkis

Sorry to hijack the thread, but i got wear on mine, but it is only the inside inch, enough to blow my tyre any ideas??

Whiteline are in sydney dude. Give them a call direct if you arer intereseted in their control arms. Becareful of some of the cheaper arms on the market. Quality is pretty low and i would not like to find out what would happen if they failed at 100kph on freeway.

Regrds

R Dirty 3

go to a tyre or suspension shop and get them to match the toe to the camber. that will greatly reduce the tyre wear.

All that means is instead of wearing the tyres out fast only on the inside, it wears out the whole tread fast. It’s a band aid, the proper answer is to fix the excessive camber

:ermm: cheers :(

Had my car up on a hoist today and took some pics. I have tein adjustable (height and damper I believe) coilovers and this is what my rear tyres look like.

Is it bad wheel alignment etc or just this camber issue?

post-1296-1151388402.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...