Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest 2flyby

Hey people, i used to drive a 1986 bmw e30 and on the w/e it got written off by some damn f*wit

anyway nrma said they wont fix it, so i have about 15-20G to spend on a new car, i was thinking maybe a skyline and thought the best place to come to find out about them is here :D

so anyway ur opinions and comments would be appretiated, eg. what model to get the differences etc. as i know nothing about them.

I was thinking something that looks good i.e has some wheels kit, or if not then something for 15G so i can put a kit and wheels on it, by the way how much are kits? ive done all this for bmw's but nevr anything else

cheers

kirk.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12373-new-member-maybe-new-car/
Share on other sites

15-20g hey..... well u could get a nice 1994, 1995 mabye, R33 GTS-T, they have 2.5ltr, 6cylinder, Turbo engines. Produce 187kw at the engine, i think. 0 - 100 in about 6.2 seconds. So a pretty capable car.

Um... the R33 model has 2 series, i only really know the cosmetics differences. The Series 1 rear spoiler is very low in height, and is rounded, as in if u'r looking at the car from behind it has a slight arc to it, i u get catch my dorfito. Series 2 spoiler (which i think is an awesome spoiler) is slightly higher and a has sharper lines, as in goes straight up for a little bit from each side, then goes straight across to make the cross beam bit.

Front bars are also different, Series 2 are slightly more aggressive style front bar. Also the bonnet on the Series 2 lip over a bit more, as in the bit in between the 2 headlights comes down a bit more, and doesn't just stop at the top of the headlights. The headlights of hte Series 2 are also a slightly different shape (or are they positioned slightly different??)

In terms of interior and performance, well meggala.com will have the answers, i don't know of the top of my head. But i'd imagine there would be some updates between the 2 series, maybe a bit more torque for the Series 2 car, but i'm only guessing.

U could also think about a R32, 1989-1994. Smaller car, had 2ltr, 6 cylinder turbo's. Could get a VERY nice one for 15k, but u can also find a nice one for around 12K.

Both R32 and 33's have 4WD models, the R32 4WD drive model is turbo, and the R33 is non-turbo. Oh yeah, and u can also get non-turbo R32's and 33's in the same respective engines. 2ltr non-turbo's for the 32 and 2.5ltr non-turbo's for the R33. There are a few other variations of each model, but they are the basic, basic ones.

I don't have a skyline myself, but from all accounts and the why Skylines Australia is so big is because they are GREAT cars, very capable and very reliable as the RB series of engines (used in Skylines, eg. RB25DET 2.5ltr turbo) are i think cast iron blocks, so heavy, but reliable.

But compared to meggala's site, this post ain't got nothing. Just thought i'd give u a quick run down and also contribute to the forums, cos i was in the exact same position a little while ago (not knowing anything about skylines), and these guys have answered a lot of my questions :)

cheers

Make sure u leave some cash spare for insurance...

Im not sure wat sort of premium u were paying b4 with ur Bmw but depending on ur rating and risk (prior offences etc) it might be too expensive so id check out insurance first....

Guest 2flyby

thanx yeah well insurance ill put it into my mums name :P plus the crash wasnt my fault etc.

i just have to figure out which car is the best for the buy, seeing i had a 86 bmw (heavily modded) im thinking even a r33 gts-t with not many mods would be better than a older model like a r32 gts-t with a few mods...

how are these cars for reliablity etc. ?? i have never had a turbo car and think it would be nice to get one but how is it in regaurds to wear and tear? do these things break down more easyily and in your experiences how much am i looking for in parts etc? even if i go for a n/a skyline is it prone to stuff breaking,

cheers

I have had my 33 for for 18 month now and have done 30000k in that time including two Bris-Syd runs. Have yet to have any mechanical failure. All the money I have spent is on good stuff so I am happy.

For parts, I think with any car its the same, once you find a good supplier you won't have a problem. I have never had a problem finding the parts that I have needed, just look around to find that supplier, as prices can vary dramatically. But again that is pretty much the same with any car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...