Jump to content
SAU Community

How the hell do you mod a car and dodge the Filth and/or the EPA


Recommended Posts

There has to be plenty of ppl in the same boat as me, aftermarket air pod, BOV, boost controller or a front mount intercooler. According to Protech Developments Pty. Ltd. ALL these mods are illegal no matter what you do. Is this true and if so how the hell do pll get away with it? If it's not true where or who do i see to get it passed?

Engineers only works for non-emission affecting mods like:

brakes/suspension/gearbox/diff etc. etc. mods.

You can get and engineers when you upgrade Turbo/ECU/BOV,

But you also have to get the EPA to test it also... i heard EPA test's were about $1,000 and if you fail there is no re-test so you have to pay again and again till it passes.

But if you do get and Engineers, get them to write down all the mods.

If they don't and just give you a certificate.... the cop's will just say that the piece of paper means nothing if the mod's aren't listed.

They say that you could've changed parts... etc. etc.

And then give you a canary... and if they can't do that.

So if you wanna be 100% safe... you gotta do the EPA test thing and also get THEM to write down what mod's you have too.

Hope that helps.... i could be wrong with some stuff but it's open to debate

Another option is to avoid places that attracts idiots, which then attracts the cops' attention. Places such as Chapel Str., Elwood, illegal drags, etc., etc..

Sometimes you can be unlucky and just get done by a playa hater!

it's all good... but when ya have a nice car you wanna drive it (not that i'd go anywhere near chapel) but you know what i mean ?

Like a nice drivce down beach Rd on a Sat night cause it's HOT as... and all you do is get hassled

I agree with that.

All i'm sayin is that you know certain areas like; chappel, illegal drags (even if only spectating), Bell Str. Macca's, etc. will be swarmming will cops. So why risk it?, then cry on the forrum about cruising down chaps., and driving out with a big yellow sticker because of your BOV.

Guest INASNT

Y worry about the cops and the epa. Its your car do what u like with it.

I just got a canary and epa test done coz the pig that canaryed me reported me to the epa 2. U r allowed 1 intake mod, which mine was intercooler, i took off/hid the other mods and then after passing the test i put them all back on.

Its a game of cat and mouse, dont act like a tool on the road and u wont attract the wrong attention to your car.

And as for emission test costing $2500, the epa did mine for free. Its just a gas analysising machine and they stick a probe in the exhaust and rev it a bit. Takes about 5-10 and they print out the results. $2500?? i dont thin so.

Originally posted by INASNT

Y worry about the cops and the epa. Its your car do what u like with it.

I just got a canary and epa test done coz the pig that canaryed me reported me to the epa 2. U r allowed 1 intake mod, which mine was intercooler, i took off/hid the other mods and then after passing the test i put them all back on.

And as for emission test costing $2500, the epa did mine for free. Its just a gas analysising machine and they stick a probe in the exhaust and rev it a bit. Takes about 5-10 and they print out the results. $2500?? i dont thin so.

Inasnt.... in relation to a few bits...

It's your car and you can do what you want. As long as it's classed as 'legal'

Your mods might make it safer and better... but is it 'legal'

if you get EPA'd i think more than 3 times for the same offences the EPA can de-register your car/dish out a phat fine (or the cops can) i might not be 100% right there but it's something along those lines.

Also... An emission test being $2,500... yeah it's around that. That to get your car approved with ALL mods to your car on there. Rather than just the one intake mod rule.

Cause for others with different plenum's... cooler piping/extra injectors/bigger injectors/bigger turbo's and all that sort of crap. It's a great hassle taking it back to stock everytime ya get pulled over... so if you pass the test you never have to worry about it if the give you an EPA

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by R31Nismoid

Inasnt.... in relation to a few bits...

It's your car and you can do what you want. As long as it's classed as 'legal'

Your mods might make it safer and better... but is it 'legal'

if you get EPA'd i think more than 3 times for the same offences the EPA can de-register your car/dish out a phat fine (or the cops can) i might not be 100% right there but it's something along those lines.

Also... An emission test being $2,500... yeah it's around that. That to get your car approved with ALL mods to your car on there. Rather than just the one intake mod rule.

Cause for others with different plenum's... cooler piping/extra injectors/bigger injectors/bigger turbo's and all that sort of crap. It's a great hassle taking it back to stock everytime ya get pulled over... so if you pass the test you never have to worry about it if the give you an EPA

thats y with my turbo upgrade i am going for lowmount setup, then they wouldnt know the difference. As for bigger injectors epa wouldnt have a clue (they didnt know what my afm did when i went for the test)

When i passed my test the epa guy told me he would need photo evidence from the cops if i was reported again or else he would just ignore it!

The epa dont realise that alot of the mods make the car run better with less emissions.

put bigger injectors they'll notice.

Trust me.

if you get a guy that actually knows what he is on about (and some of them do) then i think you'll find you'll be in for a surprise.

They have a rough idea of what model cars should be running and if it's largely different, then you might find yourself in a spot oif bother... as would i and lots of others.

And he doesn't ned photo evidence. If he states you have a different mods or whatever you can still get reported i think

I'd like to know how epa testing, (and that's the term you're using) costs 2500 dollars??? What an absolute steaming helping!

That is as much as it costs to comply a whole car at a RETAIL LEVEL!! Jeez.

Guest INASNT
And he doesn't ned photo evidence. If he states you have a different mods or whatever you can still get reported i think

The chief epa inspector told me the cops need photo evidence cause i said what if i get reported again for nuttin. Remember i changed my exhaust and alot of stuff before the test and my car only read 83db.

A cop can see u drive by and report u, so how does he know what mods u got?

Originally posted by 2rismo

I'd like to know how epa testing, (and that's the term you're using) costs 2500 dollars???  What an absolute steaming helping!

That is as much as it costs to comply a whole car at a RETAIL LEVEL!!  Jeez.

I'll rephrase,

EPA Compliance then.....

And yeah that's what it cost a Retail Level... cause if you change the way your car came out from the factory (save for the 1 intake mod and those sort of things they let by) then it's no longer the same as what it was orginainally tested as.

And that's what requires that level of testing.

I know this as i know someone with a Supra with a non-standard engine and is going through this in detail with the EPA and stuff.

As a matter of fact $2500 is correct. This is an emissions test provided by the EPA on a dyno. It is a simulation of real road conditions and this IS required to LEGALLY drive a car with these types of intake modifications. As for the 1 intake mod rule, as soon as you modify any component of a car that may effect the emissions of the car it is no longer covered under the EPA’s initial report as it does not comply with is original specs.

Guest INASNT

y worry about the epa with your car.

there r plenty of other shit buckets out on the road blowing slow and crap out their exhausts.

In a few months the cops wont be picking on us imports that much once the new import laws come in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...