Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I took my turbo smart boost controller out bcoz the police told me to otherwise its a $300 fine.

Just wondering does the boost controller have to be in the engine bay?

Can I install it under the dash somewhere and run the line into the engine bay into the actuator.

Or is the length of the hose critical that is connected to the controller and actuator?

Also my Autometre boost gauge always needs calibration after 3 months or so...which means i have take it out of the dash and pull the dash apart to get in behind it to calibrate it. Any suggestions or similar problems.

I Also need an air box made up to fit around my Blitz pod filter. Any suggestions in Sydney?

lol suprised the boys in blue knew what to look for, havent got one but a few mates run them and havent had any trouble as yet , i thought you could get in car digital ones that you could up and down at a push of a button

in both cases, electronic or gated, you can run a hose into the dash.

a 2m or so added length to the hose wont affect the performance etc..

turbosmart sell a 2 stage in cabin unit, which has vaccum lines from the wastegate to the cabin, then to the manifold. that short of a distance should do nothing

in both cases, electronic or gated, you can run a hose into the dash.

a 2m or so added length to the hose wont affect the performance etc..

turbosmart sell a 2 stage in cabin unit, which has vaccum lines from the wastegate to the cabin, then to the manifold. that short of a distance should do nothing

my waste gate has one tube in the middle of it going to the intake manifold but it also has a connection on the back of the wastegate for another tube where would this go to ?

my waste gate has one tube in the middle of it going to the intake manifold but it also has a connection on the back of the wastegate for another tube where would this go to ?

is it an internal or external gate?

ok 4 sum reason i cant upload, so il try n explain it.

the top pipe goes to your solenoid, and the other pipe goes to a "t" peice. this then goes to the other side of the solenoid and to the manifold.

comprende?

ok 4 sum reason i cant upload, so il try n explain it.

the top pipe goes to your solenoid, and the other pipe goes to a "t" peice. this then goes to the other side of the solenoid and to the manifold.

comprende?

yeah i understand ,the top one on this goes to a T which splits it to the boost gauge and to the manifold the one on the rear of the WG doesnt have a pipe going anywhere just the fitting

Just wondering does the boost controller have to be in the engine bay?

Or is the length of the hose critical that is connected to the controller and actuator?

The less hose there is between the bleeder the better.

My bleeder was very close to the turbo for a while, not a spike.

Ive seen other "in cabin" jobs and they are appaling.

Either way, the police these days are not stupid (i assume you are in Vic)

I would just take the car to a workshop and have the actuator modified to run a higher boost level for minor applications

I was told by a cop to remove my ebc one day, i rang transport and they said it was fine.

Called the cop back and left a message to call me, suprise suprise he never called me back.

I am in qld, dont know about victoria though.

I would never use a simple bleeder, grab a pfc and the boost control kit for that. You should be able to hide it pretty well!

Whats wrong with using a bleeder?

Dont know what experience you have had with ebc's but mine have been all good.

I wound never use something as cheap and coarse and a bleeder i also like the ebc's ability to bring boost on a little faster!

If the budget allows i would always grab a ebc, but yes there are some out there that are a little dodgy.

I have used profec b, and profec b spec II, for my 26/30 i will use a pfc and the pfc bc kit.

Well see how it goes.

However i will be the first to admit it can take some time to set an ebc up perfectly!

If your labelling a bleeder dodgy, you have NFI what you are talking about :D

I've never used an EBC. Bleeders since day one.

EBC's are nice, bleeders are nice.

To say one is dodgy is just wrong

If your labelling a bleeder dodgy, you have NFI what you are talking about :D

I've never used an EBC. Bleeders since day one.

EBC's are nice, bleeders are nice.

To say one is dodgy is just wrong

As i said i feel they are a little coarse, and cannot bring boost on earlier as a ebc can.

I also said that some ebcs are a little dodgy, does this mean i have NFI what im talking about?

I suspect that it people are having problems with ebcs that are known to do the job well then perhaps they need to look at uprgading from the stock actuator to bring their mechanical boost level closer to their desired higher ebc boost level.

i dont reckon an EBC can bring boost on earlier compared to a bleeder.

I certainly didnt have boost delivery issues

With an ebc you can adjust when the wastegate starts to open, this brings boost on faster than a bleeder. If you set this to close to your desired boost level if will spike. You must find a good compromise which is the difference between a well setup ebc and one that isnt.

The greddy profec b spec 2 can also limit boost spiking. eg i have it set to 1.18 bar as i dont want it to go over 1.17. This feature is really handy when setting it up.

Maybe give one a try someday, you could always sell it if you dont like it.

If you have a pfc i think it would be silly not to run their pfc ebc kit.

Also i wasnt saying you were having boost delivery issues.

Mick

EBC vs a Bleeder, I have a Turbosmart boost Tee I have no problems with it, if you hit the Accelerator hard a 5000rpm it spikes only .5 psi and it is conected after the coola. is spikeing all that bad, $80 to $400 I think the Bleeder does fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...