Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys was just wondering what engine you think would be more suitable for drifting a 180sx a RB25DET or the SR20DET need help as mate thinks sr20 would drift better where i think rb25...lol

cheers adam...

Edited by Bo05t3d
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124569-drift-spec-180sx-rb25det-or-sr20det/
Share on other sites

Go an Ecotec.

But seriously, for most people the SR20DET gives enough power and response to get drifting. It's cheaper and gives better weight distrobution than the RB. Only in really extreme drift would the extra power, torque and response of the RB be worthwhile.

Just my 2c

Edited by Big Rizza
Your mate and the Big R is right.. Not only is the RB25 heavier but it locates the weight further forward of the crossmember.

A VQ30 on the other hand :whistling:

That thing barely fits into a 300ZX. How the hell do you squeeze it into an S13? Very wide engine for such a small vehicle...

Your're getting the VG and the VQ series(alloy block) mixed up.. And I have seen a VG30 in a 180. Also my mate had a VQ30 in a Laurel. Was a nice fit. Banzai motorsports recently bought it as a project car. I've heard rumors of that VQ30's are lighter than RB25's. Also the single stock turbo of the VQ being of steel wheel config gives the possibility of 220rwkw :whistling:

But yeah any V layout engine in an S13 will probably create under bonnet temp issues.

i'd probably say rb20. slightly more torque than a sr20, so if you were to go into a corner, or come out of a corner, lower in the rev range the more torque would still be able to keep the wheels spinning. but it really comes down to what mods you are going to run on the engine. if it is going to be reasonably stock then the sr20 won't be as good as the rb20 because the sr takes a while to spool up due to the bush bearing turbo. however to use an rb motor you would need to change to a steel wheeled turbo, otherwise you will cook it.

i'd probably say rb20. slightly more torque than a sr20, so if you were to go into a corner, or come out of a corner, lower in the rev range the more torque would still be able to keep the wheels spinning. but it really comes down to what mods you are going to run on the engine. if it is going to be reasonably stock then the sr20 won't be as good as the rb20 because the sr takes a while to spool up due to the bush bearing turbo. however to use an rb motor you would need to change to a steel wheeled turbo, otherwise you will cook it.

Thats just plain, WRONG...the RB20DET has no torque compaired to the SR20DET...i should know, ive owned both!

The SR has heaps more low down compaired to the RB20...expecially when going for a larger turbo

SR is the pick of the bunch for an S13...but sounds like a tractor....RB note is insane!

An RB25 will have more torque though (which was the original question, and I think / hope mad082 just typo'ed).

That said, you want a well balanced car and an RB powered Silvia won't be as well balanced as an SR powered one.

the RB20DET has no torque compaired to the SR20DET...i should know, ive owned both!

were they in the same car? the r32 is a heavier car than a silvia or 180. i have driven a silvia with an rb20 motor in it, and i used to own a 180sx with an sr20. the rb20 had more low down power then the sr20. out of a slow corner the rb would pull a lot earlier in the revs. but out of a slow corner the missus' natro sr20 pulsar would beat both of them until they got up in the revs.

and i'm talking about stock motors with stock turbos, just front mounts and exhausts.

Edited by mad082
i'd probably say rb20. slightly more torque than a sr20, so if you were to go into a corner, or come out of a corner, lower in the rev range the more torque would still be able to keep the wheels spinning. but it really comes down to what mods you are going to run on the engine. if it is going to be reasonably stock then the sr20 won't be as good as the rb20 because the sr takes a while to spool up due to the bush bearing turbo. however to use an rb motor you would need to change to a steel wheeled turbo, otherwise you will cook it.

LOL!

The RB20 has no torque.

It's a 6, where the SR20 is a 4 cyl.

on the topic, whats the weight difference between an rb20 and rb25?

Would having one in a 32 make a huge difference to the weight distribution of the car?

You'll actually be suprised, but a significant portion of the difference in weight between an r32 and r33 is actually the motor and gearbox.

This goes to all of those homos calling r33s boats. I'm not just making this up off the top of my head. I did an rb25 into r ugly poo (32). After helpinng a friend out with an rb25 swap into his r ugly poo, it weighed almost as much as an r33 gtst.

So basically, to all you r32 lovers, the reason why your car is lighter is mainly because of the crap motor and crap gearbox.

Edited by MANWHOR3
You'll actually be suprised, but a significant portion of the difference in weight between an r32 and r33 is actually the motor and gearbox.

This goes to all of those homos calling r33s boats. I'm not just making this up off the top of my head. I did an rb25 into r ugly poo (32). After helpinng a friend out with an rb25 swap into his r ugly poo, it weighed almost as much as an r33 gtst.

So basically, to all you r32 lovers, the reason why your car is lighter is mainly because of the crap motor and crap gearbox.

Lol so much hostility dude,

They also bag our cars on the looks & how it's all bulgy, I love 33's In fact all of the skylines.

What's with all this competitiveness between r32/r33 owners? Aren't we all supposed to be united against power tripping cops & v8 bogans? :)

Why not hate on the R34 owners for owning better looking and faster cars than you? :)

[Flamesuit: ON]

There is no hostility or hatred going on here, just merely pointing out that most of the weight comes from superior parts, such as motor (and ancilliaries e.g. bigger fuel pump, bigger injectors, etc, every small thing adds weight) and much bigger box.

I was also merely pointing out that r ugly poo owners call r33s whales for being heavy when once these upgrades are installed into an r32, the weight is not that different, but at the end of the day, the interior still looks like a vn commo and the exterior is not far off a vl.

But in reply to the thread, sr20 since the car is designed for an sr. Much better/easier fit (an rb20/25 is really tight. try and find a pic of one). much better weight balance. plenty of power for the lighter car.

i'd probably say rb20. slightly more torque than a sr20, so if you were to go into a corner, or come out of a corner, lower in the rev range the more torque would still be able to keep the wheels spinning. but it really comes down to what mods you are going to run on the engine. if it is going to be reasonably stock then the sr20 won't be as good as the rb20 because the sr takes a while to spool up due to the bush bearing turbo. however to use an rb motor you would need to change to a steel wheeled turbo, otherwise you will cook it.

LOL is all I can do at that.

I drift my RB20 and no, it sucks, even my old CA18 Silvia had more torque down-low to mid which is where you most need it for drifting IMO. Apart from being annoying on the track, it's also annoying on the street as well, have to redline it just to take off from the lights at a reasonable rate. :P

I was also merely pointing out that r ugly poo owners call r33s whales for being heavy when once these upgrades are installed into an r32, the weight is not that different, but at the end of the day, the interior still looks like a vn commo and the exterior is not far off a vl.

I don't think anyone started bagging R33s in this thread but you straight out started to bag R32s just cause you felt like it in an unrelated topic. So because you've let your thoughts free, so will I even though they will be offensive.

Sorry but my interpretation is that whale is in reference to the whale-like appearance (small factor being weight). I knew the whales were much better value than the 32s when I bought my "ugly poo", but I wouldn't be able to live with the fact that when I stare at my car I see a whale on wheels. Ugly FAT things they are. But hey this is just my opinion and it shouldn't matter to you.

You know that is always in my mind when I think of R33s but you don't see me boasting around and bagging other models in any old unrelated topic with no mention of of it.

We all love Skylines, we should learn to be more opened minded and tolerant of other people's opinions/tastes, control yourselves guys. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...